C2C In
Two Days - an Aussie Mackem Reports I have done a fair bit of cycling and had long wanted to do the C2C but never really made the effort until last year. I did what I would call a fair bit of training – probably riding up to 150km a week in the month leading up to departure, including many laps of Mount Coot-tha – a 250m mountain just outside the city of Brisbane which is ideal for painful hill training. Partly based on the web-site advice I decided to hire a bike rather than carry mine. I rang ahead and Darke’s assured me they would have something suitable…. I can only say we clearly have different definitions of suitable. The only bike they could offer was an old, but solid Raleigh that had no suspension and was probably too small in the frame for my 6 foot height. This was a very tempting opportunity to opt out of the event that I managed to resist. A quick but fruitless ring around of friends and relatives left me with no option but to go with ‘the beast’. Day One However it was dry and bright-ish , if a little chilly at 9am as I saddled up to leave Whitehaven with some trepidation. And very quickly the track had me in pleasant countryside – the local maps on the web-site proving an excellent guide. Our plan was to rendezvous at various points where the track passed the road every hour or two, and in general it worked very well, with both of us seeing plenty of the countryside and not having to wait to long at any point. The first hill up to Lamplugh came as a bit of a shock to the legs – but a sign of things to come. Similarly the first serious climb to Whinlatter Pass was a reminder that the C2C would be a real challenge, but also that the sights and sounds of this part of the world are really worth the effort of taking the bike option, and wherever possible the off-road option. A pleasant run into Keswick and the first departure from the recommended route at the entry to the town. It didn’t worry me at the time as we enjoyed a pleasant lunch in what was now an ideal day for cycling, no wind and relatively cool. However on trying to leave town I got confused with the map and found myself on the route heading west that I had missed earlier. Half an hour wasted and I was back on the right track, but unfortunately the driver was similarly confused was even further astray before realising the error – it pays to be careful in the towns! Some pleasant countryside outside of Keswick before taking probably the major off-road option over the Coach Road. In summary – the Coach Road is tough, will require some walking for just about everyone, and will shake your bones even if you do have the suspension I was lacking. However after the initial climb it does flatten out over a plateau through some wonderful country with great views on a clear day as it was for me. Also, given it is the section that gets furthest away from roads the peace and tranquillity makes it well worth the slog. The height that was gained is then given back through a stretch of pretty country lanes leading into Penrith, and an opportunity to catch up with my support for a swift half and a sandwich at one of the many lovely village pubs. There followed something of a respite through some undulating country that lead to the bottom of Hartside. I mostly chose the road option up Hartside - the road is very well graded and in the early evening was almost devoid of traffic. The off-road option is not far from the road, and from what I saw of people taking that route it would add a significant amount of time to the climb without necessarily being any more ‘in the country’. Maybe if I had had more time and my own bike the challenge would have appealed – but it was after 7pm by the time I made it to the top and I was ready for dinner! We hadn’t pre-booked any accommodation as I didn’t have enough confidence in my abilities to make it in two days. Hence using the guide book we called ahead when it was clear we would make it to Garrigill, which unfortunately proved to be full for the night – no great surprise when you see the size of the village. Fortunately we found a room in Alston – cant remember which hotel unfortunately (just over the bridge at the bottom end of town) but it was reasonable and they served up a wonderful hearty dinner. In summary, I was off the bike by 8pm the first evening having covered probably 80 miles and most of the major climbs. It was a long day (11 hours since Whitehaven) but with regular stops and breaks to enjoy the scenery and check in with the support team it hadn’t felt like I was having to kill myself. And at the end of it, I don’t recall ever have a better nights sleep! Day Two Back on the hard top through Nenthead I chose once again to take road option up to Black Hill. The short off-road option was adjacent and looked very rough – once again the road was well graded and quiet which made it an easy climb. It looked all downhill on the map from here but there was some nasty little climbs on the roads through Allenheads and to Rookhope. At Rookhope after an early (11am) lunch I waved goodbye to my support who was off to the Metro centre with a plan of meeting at the finish at 3pm. The off-road climb out of Rookhope was another challenge on by now tired legs and necessitated some walking. I did see a couple of people with serious saddle bags making it all the way up – but they were on the more relaxing 3 day itinerary! All in all across the top was another fine spot and at the ruins there was a fair group of riders swapping war stories – one group in particular had managed to get completely lost and spent 2 hours off the route. Watching the map and following the signs carefully as I was I struggle to see how anyone could get that far off track but there you go. I realised by now that time was tight for me and pressed on across Waskerley and the good fun single track riding through mud and puddles. Probably the most enjoyable off-road riding of the route for me with full concentration required given the speed of travel. Into Consett via the very impressive Hownsgill Viaduct and once again the web site map made it fairly simple. Slightly more difficulty through Stanley where the signs had all been vandalised – but the locals knew the way and were very helpful. I was now into familiar territory for me
through semi urban areas, but the path feels rural and is all
off-road. The riding was flat and generally easy but given my
schedule I was having to push which made it feel like hard work.
Some undulations along the river Wear before Southwick that weren’t
big enough to make the route profile certainly had an impact
on my by now very weary legs – but as my magnificent place of
worship (the Stadium of Light) loomed ahead I knew I was almost
home. Following the fine new river path around the marina and
there was the finish at the piers – and what a great feeling.
Went in for a swim to round things off and a photograph to the
consternation of the locals. And two days – in good weather its very manageable
with reasonable fitness. And to be honest – the weather could easily
take all the enjoyment out of the trip anyway – I was watching
the forecast carefully and really believe its wise to factor in
some time flexibility to avoid heavy rain.
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