Bob and Graham go C2C
Workington to Sunderland - 11to 13 August 2003

I'm Bob from Durham City and this 3-day crossing was with my adult son Graham. Previously on day outings I had cycled parts of the route but all of it was new to Graham.

Day 1. Workington - Mungrisdale (35 miles)
Dropped off for a 9:30am start, we took the northern branch of the route to Cockermouth -- then went via the B5292 to Lorton (3 miles in top gear!) and onto the southern branch over Whinlatter. Reasons -- (i) Whitehaven to Lorton is much hillier, and (ii) the Wythop descent is too hard.

The mile or so of forest road at the top is still officially closed but the signs and barriers were missing. So we came on the tree-felling unexpectedly, but went through because it was the workmen's lunch-break.

Good pit stops -- baked potatoes and baked beans at Whinlatter, apple pie and cream at the Portinscale tearoom, a pint and crisps in warm sun with marvellous views in the Horse & Farrier's beer garden in Threlkeld.

The Greta valley out of Keswick is a beautiful ride -- the alternative via the stone circle isn't worth the climb IMHO.

In Mungrisdale, average pub meal at the Mill Inn and cycle-friendly B&B at the Old Vicarage. Here the host Gordon has a video of Joss Naylor's 60th-birthday non-stop run in 37 hours over the 60 highest Lakeland peaks -- 110 miles and 25,000 meters of climb. Puts our little trip into perspective!

Day 2. Mungrisdale - Nenthead (41 miles)
Don't go back to the A66 from Mungrisdale -- take the quiet way through the lanes to Berrier -- the gentle climb is a good loosener.

Fell Lane out of Penrith turned out to be a paper tiger -- half a mile of moderate slope all on the middle chain-ring.

Look out for the Watermill Tearoom in Little Salkeld -- it's like the Village Bakery in Melmerby nearby -- organic wholegrain veggie heaven. Marvel at the exploits of the 'Saddle-less Bicycle Club', and stoke up with soup, bread and tea for what's ahead.

At Hartside summit it's the far end of the culinary spectrum -- old fashioned transport cafe -- fry-ups, thick china mugs, bikers, and fag smoke. But expect a crowd of C2C-ers there, recharging after the climb.

The Hartside climb is definitely not hors categorie, by the way -- it's taxing only because of length, not steepness.

The significant undulations between Leadgate and Garrigill are at least suggested on the Sustrans map -- but astonishingly it doesn't have even a single hill chevron on the most eye-poppingly steep climb of the whole trip -- that from Garrigill onto Flinty Fell. The start definitely needs
not just bottom gear but also some grim tooth-gritting, and there are several false summits before a precipitous descent to Nenthead.

Miners Arms -- B&B for 18 pounds in a family room -- food very average but beer 1.80 pounds a pint. Lots of C2C-ers from the bunkhouses and campsite -- a good social atmosphere.

Day 3. Nenthead - Sunderland (54 miles)
Sunny weather with a fresh westerly breeze. No wonder today's climbs seemed routine.

At both Nenthead and Allendale there are fierce official C2C warnings that Rookhope incline may be closed in season for grouse shooting -- 'without prejudice to the public right of way' whatever that means legally. But it was 13th August and there was no shooting -- perhaps all the grouse had
been killed on the season's first day, the 12th.

The incline was difficult with our road tyres, with 10 yards of unridable steep gravel early on before the gate -- and on loose sand and stones near the top I lost everything and dumped off.

But then there's an excellent ride, with marvellous open views, level or downhill through heather in full bloom across Stanhope Common. Mostly the surface is good, but look out for hidden bumps and gullies and don't be too carefree in top gear on the narrower final section after the Y-junction. We met a chap who'd just gone over his handlebars along there.

The caravan cafe at the start of the Waskerley Way cannot be recommended too strongly. Very cycle-friendly, and the food is fresh, very generous, and very cheap. A whole meal in one bowl of soup for 1.50 pounds! And the young waitress in her NUFC shirt has the purest and most musical genuine Tyneside Geordie accent you'll ever hear.

From there, enjoy lots of top-gear cruising. Though there's currently a 100-yard detour on foot round track repairs just short of Red House Farm -- where incidentally the Bee Cottage cafe is now open only at weekends.

No problems this time with broken glass, kids on motorcycles, grass fires, loose dogs, lads with airguns, etc, in the stretches of bandit country through Consett-Leadgate-Annfield Plain-Stanley-Beamish.

Later on, Washington Wildfowl Park is a cycle-friendly pit stop. Push your bike indoors and along the corridor to the right to reach the bike stands. Entry to the whole place is free, and on request cafe staff willingly fill bidons with ice-cold water.

Smooth cruise in afternoon sunshine past the Stadium of Light through the sculpture park to the marina -- and picked up to return to Durham before the rush-hour traffic. What could be better?

The pictures can be viewed at - http://maths.dur.ac.uk/~dma0rcj/PIX/P030813/