Panniers in Space
Coast to Coast Bike Trip - September 2004 - by Geoff Hume

My work Colleague Tom Rogers (from Stoke on Trent) and I (from Washington originally but now exiled in Derby), agreed to do the Coast to Coast without really doing a lot of preparation it is fair to say. Within eight weeks of agreeing a date, we were on our way.

We took the option of doing it in three days without support vehicles which meant either panniers or rucksacks. I decided against a rucksack because of a high centre of gravity -see, I was listening in physics lessons all those years ago - and sweaty back syndrome. Fortunately I picked up a decent set from Decathlon whilst in France earlier this year on holiday.

Good news, setting off on Friday September 24th coincided with three days of pretty good weather. Bad news, within first half mile Tom's panniers had come adrift and we lost 20 mins trying to get sorted.

Got to Keswick in time for a mid morning break at Lakeland peddlar and met a group of cyclists we thought were C2C'ing but were riding the hills off-road. Pushed on to Threlkeld - well cycled actually, until Tom came off - straight into biggest nettle patch I've ever seen. Fish, chips and peas at Horse and Farrier was a mistake, I can see why people take energy bars and bananas.

Arrived to sunshine in Greystoke, booked into Brathen Guest House (recommended) alongside five lads from Leeds/Bradford area. Nice evening meal in village pub….fast asleep by 10.00

Good news, woke up to hearty breakfast on Friday morning. Bad news, first puncture on Tom's bike before we got out of Greystoke. Because we thought we were unlikely to pedal all of the way up Hartside due to cumbersome panniers, we decided that if we had to push, we'd push the shortest distance, which was the off road route. Ah, hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Hartside Cafe emerged (disappeared then re-emerged) from the mists like a mirage. Inside for hot soup and a thawing out before blasting down the other side. At Nenthead met up with four Geordie cyclists (coast to coast cycle push they said they were doing!) and took each others photo's at the Northumberland sign. Offloaded some of my fig rolls (well I read somewhere they were good fodder for cyclists, but I couldn't see us scoffing the 2 packets I had taken) much to their appreciation. We discovered that all six of us were staying at Allenheads, so onwards we blasted down from Black Hill.

Ten minutes after we had arrived in Allenheads I noticed my buddy wasn't with us so I started back up towards Black Hill expecting the worst. My fears were allayed when poottling down the hill comes Tom with the story that when he crossed the cattle grid his bike suddenly picked up speed. He realised that the jolt had jettisoned the aforementioned panniers, and by the time he realised this, slowed down and walked back up to fetch them, he had a considerable delay. It was on that day we discovered he'd onlt fitted them back to front on the rack (you would have thought the reflective strips on one end might have given a clue). Oh how we laughed!!!!

Allenheads Inn that night was great. Good food, good beer (Black sheep ale), a nice soft bed. The five Leeds/Bradford lads were also staying there plus about twenty other cyclists who drank like rugby players. The four geordies also dined there (and drank - well they were geordies) so it was a night of much banter and p***taking. One of them took a very nasty tumble 12 miles into their ride and bore the scars very bravely. Good to see they carried on to finish the ride together.

Last day is a memory of the pull (literally) up to the top of Rookhope followed by mile after mile of cross country coasting into Consett. The quality of scenery definitely deteriorates thereafter, but it's still a great experience completing the ride.

Would I do it again? Definitely, but not with panniers, and possibly over 4 days to allow more time for sightseeing.

Great to be back in familiar territory and among likeminded people. Gentlemen I salute you.

By the way, does anyone want to buy a set of panniers?

Geoff Hume