A trans-generational
C2C challenge Cast: Cycle down to the lighthouse to ‘dip the wheels’ – and our first push! The bikes just will not go through the sand! Once accomplished, we’re off properly, taking it easy over the (very!) narrow bridge but finding our way onto the cycle path easily enough. It’s a fair, dry day with little wind but no real sun – pretty much ideal. Easy going on the old railway path takes us steadily on to pleasant Cockermouth (with handy toilets), and our first stamping point. This we found easily, with pre-warning about its change of identity to a Co-op (thanks to this excellent C2C website!!). Off again, and I nearly missed the turn back onto the railway path – fortunately Graeme didn’t! Then we’re soon onto roads again, and a climb out of the town, but I’m pleasantly surprised by the relative ease of the final climb to Wythop. Then … the descent through the woods!! We were glad of the forewarning about the sharp right turn after the forest road, but just after that the track bit back! Graeme came off on some gravel, but the grazed knee was soon patched up. My turn came 200m further on, when I took off from a rock, feet came off the pedals, and only found them again one sharp smack to the left shin later! Despite these minor mishaps, we managed
happily along to Keswick in pale sunshine. It was almost idyllic
riding through the trees
near Braithwaite, watching the patrolling dragonflies darting up
and down the middle of the deserted road. It got busy approaching
Keswick, being Show Day, and the road into the town was the only
unpleasant riding of the day. Still, we were happy to get there
in good fettle (aching knees excepted!), and after card stamping
and reconnaissance for a meal, we were welcomed into the Harvington
House B&B [which can be well recommended]. After a shower and
a good-value pub meal, we were both ready for an early night! Setting off about 0900, we soon regain the path by the old railway station, and make steady progress through nice country, if lacking in spectacular views. We have chosen to keep to the ‘low’ route, and listening later to tales from those who tried the Old Coach Road, are glad we did! An uneventful ride through Threlkeld takes us on to the uncomfortably busy section alongside the A66, and I am glad to turn off to Mungrisdale, where we refresh ourselves with a cup of coffee / glass of Coke at the hotel. It is a nice amble on through Troutbeck and Greystoke, but it’s already after midday, and I’m beginning to worry that we are not making good enough time. Moreover, it starts to drizzle around Newton Reigny, but soon gives up again. Carefully following the directions through the ‘college’, I pause for Graeme to catch up and do a double-take … suddenly finding myself surrounded by familiar-looking “University of Central Lancashire” signs, which is based in Preston (where I work)! This is their northern agricultural and equine outpost. From here it is a short meander under the railway and through some back lanes into Penrith, and a late-ish (but delicious) lunch in the coffee shop in Narrowgate. Graeme especially relishes the triple chocolate cookie milkshake! We also meet our first fellow C2C travellers here, two young ladies from Bristol. By this time, my preceding lack of time in the saddle (which is hard and narrow) is starting to make itself felt! The offending item has also started to slip, so a short diversion to Halfords results in the acquisition of a pair of padded cycle shorts and – thanks to an eagle-eyed fellow shopper (and not the dopey staff!) – a new seat post and clamp from the bargain bin! Eventually we get going again, and it’s nice and easy after the short, stiff climb up Fell Lane. It’s just before 5 o’clock when we get to Langwathby, and all seems to be going well. Buy a drink and a couple of postcards from the shop, and we’re off on the last leg for today. I’ve planned to stop at Scalehouses, near Renwick – as close as we can to the bottom of Hartside. By heck, that is a long 7 miles from Langwathby!!
Perhaps we are tired, it is rather up and down, and a headwind
suddenly springs
up, but this section seems really hard work! And to cap it all,
there is a short but fearsome hill up to Scalehouse Farm (which
I had been warned about). Nevertheless, we get there OK, and Graeme
has only had to resort to pushing for short sections up Fell Lane,
and on the very last hill. With bikes parked in a loose box (they
cater for horseriders too), we take luxuriant baths and come down
for our booked evening meal. This is the only disappointment of
the trip, really – two courses (pasta and dessert) are tasty and
(just about) adequate, but poor value for £8 each. However,
there is no real alternative in the vicinity, and left to ourselves
in the sitting room with TV (and a playful Labrador!) it’s a relaxing
evening. Another early night – ready for the hills tomorrow!!! After refreshment, we enjoy the long, fast run down to Leadgate and (slightly less) the little switchbacks on the road to Garrigill. Graeme’s saddle is not locking in position firmly, but earlier tightening efforts were hampered by lack of a proper spanner, and it is now a more serious problem. Nonetheless, we opt to press on to Nenthead for lunch – all unsuspecting about THAT HILL which lies just round the corner!! Unmarked on the Sustrans map, this is pure punishment for 1.5 miles – starting at 1 in 4! Lots more pushing, but our efforts are put in perspective when we are overtaken by the group we had passed in Garrigill, including a chap with a trailer bike plus six year old (who is pedalling gamely, but it’s obvious where most of the effort is coming from)! One of this group observes Graeme’s saddle difficulties, and kindly offers to this sort out when they meet their support team in Nenthead – this seems to typify the help and encouragement we encounter on the whole route. The hard slog is followed by an exhilarating rush down into Nenthead – tempered only by the unexpected temporary traffic lights on the really steep bit entering the village (now THAT is how to test your brakes!). After appropriate advice and adjustments from our temporary companions, Graeme’s bike is properly set up, and is vastly improved for the rest of the trip. Good sandwiches from the Miner’s Arms, consumed in the sunshine, complete our revitalisation, and we tackle the climb up to Black Hill and the Northumberland border in fine style. From there, it’s (relatively) easy going down to Allenheads, with only a momentary doubt at the unsigned road junction as we started to drop into Allendale [keep right!]. One ice cream later, and after a final goodbye wave to the Bristolian girls (who are staying here), we set off on the last leg of this hard day. Straight into the big climb out of Allenheads, complete with hairpin bends, but we’re quite relaxed now and take our time. It’s not long until we reach the top, and cross into County Durham – our home county. To celebrate, I try to take a photo on my flash new mobile phone – and find the battery is too low! What’s more, despite being at one of the highest points on the route, there’s no phone signal either! From here it’s a cushy (and quick) downhill ride down to Rookhope where, at Graeme’s behest (having seen the recommendations on this website), we’re booked into The Old Vicarage B&B. We first make the mistake of looking for
the front door, and find one – dark and overgrown, conjuring up Dickensian visions of forbidding
country mansions. These visions are instantly dispelled when we
tentatively try instead the gate into the back yard, to be effusively
greeted by our hostess. Bundled first into the kitchen for tea
and biscuits, we meet the other guest – Andrew, a lone C2C rider
from Yorkshire whose path we had already crossed that day. We had
booked dinner here as well, so after showering and settling in
to our enormous room, we present ourselves at the appointed time.
What a contrast to the previous night!! The four of us sit cosily
and informally round the large kitchen table. Antipasti to start – which
Graeme thinks is the whole meal, there is so much! – and THEN came
the cannelloni (two sorts) … and the drinks and coffee. The owners
blend theatrical and restaurant backgrounds, so we are not only
excellently fed and watered, but also thoroughly entertained for
three hours (Graeme included) by Mrs Lomas’ stories and conversation.
(It even takes my mind off the fact that my legs are rather sun/windburnt!)
Whatever The Old Vicarage might lack in double-glazing or en suite
facilities, it more than makes up for in its hospitality and sheer
joie de vivre – we can only endorse all the recommendations! Our spirits are lifted by the refreshments, and even the rain stops as we prepare to leave. Maybe the euphoria this creates is why we manage to leave Graeme’s rucksack behind! I only notice this at Rowley, and decide there is no way we are cycling back 7 miles to get it. We press on to Consett, anticipating not only card stamping at the supermarket, but also lunch and a telephone. Well, we manage the cards, but there’s no café and the public phone is out of order … but helpful staff let me call home, to find that the people at Parkhead have found the rucksack (with wallet!) and have already rung to say they’ve got it [PS – thank you!]. Relieved, we meander into town and find a rather ‘greasy spoon’ lunch – the best thing that can be said about it is that we miss the last of the showers while we are inside! We regain the former railway track without difficulty, and make steady, if not spectacular, progress through Leadgate (the other one!) and past Annfield Plain, Stanley and Pelton. Navigation gets a little awkward near Chester-le-Street where the track splits to either side of a wide formation, overgrown in the middle, and I am doubtful about the right path … but we find the right one somehow! Landmarks follow in quick succession: crossing the East Coast Main Line and Great North Road, and then under the A1(M). We find ourselves in Washington, and the sun has come out again! A short deviation to find a phone box and our lift home is arranged, and then there is a bit of pleasant variation through a country park and farmland until we cross beneath the A19 to enter Sunderland. And here, at Castletown, is the only place we cannot find the route! I’m quite sure I haven’t missed any signs, because I’m looking out for a right turn, but we find ourselves on a busy road. We end up having to follow this and then the road through the Business Park, only picking up the signed route at the far end. I hope this is sorted out by now! There is more confusion underneath the Wearmouth Bridge, where building work has blocked the route, but we find our way back to the Esplanade, and eventually come round the corner to the marina. Time is getting on, so we get our final card stamps here (yippee!) before continuing to the ‘official’ finish. We are just setting off again when a familiar car comes round the corner, my wife having spent 20 minutes looking for us … er, maybe my ETA was a little optimistic, then (sorry)! Five minutes later, we complete the course, ‘dip’ in the North Sea and meet up again. An hour after that we’re home, and it’s all over (apart from the sunburn, and having to collect the rucksack …). So, we covered about 135 miles in four days … and what else?
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