This was a unsupported and mapless 2005 East-to-West trip, on
a Surly Long Haul Trucker. Two front panniers on Blackburn low-riders
holding essentials
(spare clothes, tools, inner tube, some toiletries, small travel bag) and luxuries
(mp3 player, marijuana) and 1 rear pannier holding just a few lightweight clothing
items and the de rigeur plastic container full of nuts and raisins. The other
rear pannier was nicked along with my beloved Bianchi Volpe last year, and
hasn’t been replaced yet.
As I said, no c2c map – I photocopied 3
pages from an AA road atlas, and printed off the Penrith, Consett
and Sunderland maps
from the c2c website. Which were all very helpful.
Bought a return ticket from London to Haltwhistle (recommended
elsewhere on c2c pages). This allowed me to travel up on GNER to
Newcastle, and have the return portion still be valid on the west
coast main line down from Oxenholme. Neat.
Light E wind, hot and sunny (25 c)
Get to Newcastle and catch local train to Sunderland, cycle to Roker Pier.
Leave at 2pm, and follow c2c route all afternoon. Really surpised by how rural
it was from the start – was prepared for urban sink estates and gangs of aimless
hoodies. Appreciate all sculptures and milestones. Reach end of Waskerly Way
about 7pm, and leave c2c route, descending into Edmundbyers for YHA.
Moderate E (oh yeah, bring it on), rain in a.m. over tops, becoming dry and
warm in p.m with sunshine (19 c).
8am start from Edmundbyers, go round through Blanchland then up over Rimey
Law, and rejoin c2c route just west of Rookhope. Up and down to Allenheads,
over Black Hill and into Nenthead, then Dowgang Hush into Garrigil.
Up through Leadgate and obligatory Hartside café stop, meeting lots
of c2c’ers bitching about the easterly wind (ha, ha !) and pushing their bikes
up to the café. Down Hartside, stop-off to see Long Meg and her Daughters,
then into Penrith. No YHA here (thought there was), so had to continue the
day onto Keswick. Turn right at Berrier and around into Mungrisdale. Arrive
Keswick at 6pm.
Light S, fluffy blue clouds and lots of sunshine (21 c)
9am start from Keswick, toil up Whinlatter Pass on road, then down into Lorton
Vale. Leave c2c route here, and cycle around through Low Rogerscales, and then
Eaglesfield – Deanscales – Branthwaite and a nasty A596 road section into Workington.
Finish at 1pm.
Thought the whole route was excellent and I had a damned good
time, even if I was on my own.
For what it’s worth, I then had to get
me and bike back to the West Coast main line. As follows:
Reverse my route back on the c2c route, nearly falling in the
harbour at the start, and then ripping one of my panniers off on
the railway bridge immediately after. Not impressive, but no damage
done. Make Cockermouth at about 3pm.
Another hot and sunny day (22 c)
8am start from Cockermouth, into Lorton Vale and pick up Whitehaven c2c route,
going over Fangs Brow and then down onto the railway path. Being Friday, meet
lots of c2c’ers coming past me, just starting off. Turn off onto the route
72 path at Moor Hill, and down into Egremont. Up onto Cold Fell through Wilton,
then back down into Calder Bridge, and a stretch on the A595 to Gosforth. Then
up Eskdale, and an attempt at Hardknott Pass. Get halfway up the 30 degree
section near the top, but by this point am fully out of the saddle in granny
gear and weaving all over the road. Car comes down at this point, and although
it stops for me, I don’t have the control to get up past it. So off the bike
- not sure if I’d have made it or not. Much to be said for trying to do this
hill early in the morning, (a) because of fresh legs, (b) less likely to get
a car coming over the top from Cockley Beck.
Then up over Wrynose Pass, and across to Hawkshead YHA for 4pm.
Ferry across Windermere, and then through Crook into Kendal. 2 fine pasties
and a slice of homemade fruit cake from Café Espresso near the market
(check it out), and finally up to Oxenholme for a 10am train back down south.
Dowgang Hush, out of Nenthead. Grrrr. As you ride out of the village, the hill
kicks in viciously. Made it up the first 30m, but the steep section continues
for the same again, and I just didn’t have the legs to make it. Pushed for
30m, then back on and rode to the top.
Day 1
Missed the sharp R at Shipwrights pub, and ended up cycling under (way under)
the QE2 bridge.
Didn’t see any c2c signs, and although the R turn is on Doug’s map, my page
had been cut short when it was printed off.
Edge of Consett, Redwell Hills Farm roundabout, missed continuation
of route, went straight on and had to main road it back on B6308
into Consett.
Day 3
Whinlatter Pass, didn’t turn R at Braithwaite crossroads - carried on instead
for a good 2 mile before realised I was heading to join the A66. My fault for
not checking where Braithwaite was on map and blindly following c2c signs,
which led to the off-road route up Whinlatter or around to Wythop Woods.
Day 1
Cycling out onto an empty Hownsgill Viaduct in early evening, under a sinking
sun and long beautiful shadows. Made all the more special as I had been jostling
at the tills of Morrisons just 5 mins earlier.
Burning up the Waskerly Way that same evening, great track and set a real good
pace all the way up.
Day 2
Rain stopping as I summitted Black Hill. Thanks.
Climbing from Leadgate to Hartside with the wind pushing at my right elbow,
lifting me up. Seeing other c2c’ers having to cycle as they made the descent
in the other direction.
Day 3
Descending Whinlatter above Whit Beck, the sun was out and had great views
over Lorton Vale.
Day 1
Losing route into Consett and then puncturing.
Day 2
Getting a good soaking going over top of Currick and down into Allenheads.
Shivering in Allenheads itself, and peering mournfully at the rain coming
down.
Day 3
The section of A596 road into Workington, narrow and walled and unpleasant
to ride.
None, thank God. Closest I came was on Day 2 both times.
Over-ran the hairpin corner coming off top from Currick down into
Allenheads, just as road dips into conifer section. There were
no bend warning signs (!), and I only just kept the bike on the
road exiting the bend.
Being surprised by mini-ramp that leads
up to gate at start of Keswick railway path. Prior to this, had
been turning a big gear
coming down A66, and nearly didn’t make the adjustment in time.
Just the 1 fast puncture, ironically when I lost the route just on the way
into Consett. Replaced inner tube, then repaired the puncture that evening
in Edmundbyers.
Cockermouth – great location, swimming in river if hot enough. Beautifully
equipped, and many many resources, maps, mags etc. to browse through.
Edmundbyers – neat hostel, and very peaceful / laidback.
Keswick – big and bold, too many schoolkids running around when I was there.
Hawkshead – nice location, good food, but spoiled by the other guests. Flash
cars, raised voices, brat-like kids.
2 titanium cooking pots with knife and fork. I guess I was still over cautious
after staying in a disgustingly dirty Scottish bunkhouse a few years ago,
but all 4 YHA kitchens were sparkingly clean and well equipped.
Suncream and lip balm – got burnt on Day 3, forearms and thighs. If Day 2 had
also been sunny, I’d have been lobstered by Workington.
Cleat from shoe, somwhere on Day 2. Serves me right for being lazy and not
removing them pre-trip, as was using toe-clips anyhow. Toothpaste, left in
Keswick YHA. Had to beg and borrow from other hostellers for last 2 nights.
love and hills,
Jonathan
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