C2C 1998
Workington - Tynemouth - a trip report by Martin Newstead

I have now completed the Sustrans Coast to Coast (C2C) twice with more or less the same group of people. One of our party is a veteran of 3 rides. We are a mixed bunch of cyclists riding very differing machines, Mike brought along his road bike, Kevin his full suspension Marin and me my 10 year old Bromwich mountain bike. Eight of us cycled this year, Mike, Kevin, Derrick, Steve, Dave, Joe, Trevor and myself. Jeremy managed our logistics providing support during the ride and transportation to and from the start and finish. Craig assisted him with his car. Four of us participated in last years ride from Whitehaven to Sunderland. Jeremy was also our cook at the campsite, his barbecues are a must !

The bank holiday weekend was a popular one for C2C'ers, three days is about right for the ride for most people. All sorts of bikes can be seen on the roads but I would recommend a mountain bike fitted with slick tyres, some of the old railway tracks are a little too rough for comfort on a road bike and then you'd have to walk or miss out on the best sections.

Day 1: Workington to Troutbeck, 43 miles
Weather: Drizzle and cool

Lining up at the start on Workington Beach
Left to Right Joe, Kev, Trevor, Me, Dave, Steve, Derrick and Mike

We began with finding the beach to dip our tyres in the Irish Sea then commenced our journey. The ride from Workington was easy, almost immediately we were on a converted railway though we still managed to get lost before five miles had been covered. We were supposed to branch off the track just before Camerton but none of us saw a sign. Thankfully our route stopped dead which caused us to check maps and realise our mistake ! In this first five miles we had our first incidents with animals. Some people were walking Beagles on the track and one dog just kept trotting along in front of us believing we were chasing him. He finally found a hole in the hedge and darted in, all he had to do was stop and we would ride past ! The second incident was a little less humorous. I was descending from Camerton on a wet road with slick tyres and black dog leapt into my path from the hedge, I jammed my brakes on, locked my rear wheel and skidded, thankfully the dog ran across the road and I avoided a crash, my friends were close behind so they would have hit me too.

We had our first stop in Cockermouth for water and food. We got lost leaving Cockermouth. Immediately after departing we took a wrong turn, losing the signs completely. We spent about half an hour debating and trying different roads until we found the main route again, the signing here is poor to say the least. It was an easy ride then to Wythop Woods where the route goes offroad culminating in a fast descent on a track about 2 feet wide and rocky in places. Poor Mike on his road bike had to walk, no alternative is marked on the map and no warnings are given. Our group disintegrated here and we arrived in Keswick in drips and drabs. The town was very busy as Saturday is market day and it took along time to meet Jeremy with the van. We lunched outside of the cyclists café, outside because they were so busy, we bought our lunch in the bakery in the main street. There is another café nearby which does take away drinks too. These are all located across the large car park on the right hand side of the C2C route (A591) as it passes through Keswick.

Since we decided not to ride the Old Coach Road we took the easy alternative off-road route directly to Threlkeld then on to Troutbeck thus avoiding the climb to Castlerigg Stone Circle. The route however was not easy on one of our group. Kevin fell on a short steep climb and could not continue his ride.

Day 2: Troutbeck to Nenthead, 45 miles
Weather: Sunny with strong tailwind

A superb view from (I think) the road that extends the 'Old Coach Road' that we took at the start of day 2.
This is marked as an alternative on the Sustrans map and rejoins the main route at Greystoke

We decided to ride down to Matterdale End and continue the ride with the alternative route which extends the Old Coach Road. We used the Old Coach Road last year which proved to be tough with lots of walking and pushing at the end of a long day. We elected to omit it this year. Our detour made up for the short day yesterday with about 5 extra miles, a long climb followed by a fast downhill. The views we great from the top and we rejoined the main route at Greystoke. We sped through Penrith and rendezvoused with Jeremy just outside Edenhall for water and bananas then on to the climb of Hartside shortly after that. I used the offroad path, including the rough track last year so this time I took the tarmac alternative all the way to the summit. The last stretch of the track is unrideable in my opinion and not worth it despite looking shorter on the map, I do not like pushing my bike ! The road climb went well for me, a steady tempo all the way passing a lot of struggling riders. The tailwind helped !

After a good rest, sandwiches and tea at Hartside we continued with the superb descent to Leadgate and Garrigill. After a short push out of Garrigill we climbed again alongside a wood to the top of the moor. Dave's chain snapped here so we had an enforced rest while we fixed it using two rocks as makeshift hammer and anvil. Since last year some sandstone rocks have been laid along the track which make for fun riding. The way looks much harder that it actually was . The descent through the old mines is exhilarating, not as dangerous as I remember from last year as the rocks seemed to be more compacted making the surface a little easier.


Day 3: Nenthead to Tynemouth, 58 miles
Weather: Misty, clearing to sunshine with strong tailwind

This is the view as you descend from Hartside through Leadgate down to Garrigill The descent is fantastic but don't admire the view for too long as the road is quite twisted !
(Mike stopped to take this picture)

Another early start and some serious climbing in the first 15 miles. All the climbs felt easier than last year probably due to the tailwind and less beer the previous evening. We made great time. We even managed not to get lost ! Last year I missed the turn in Rookhope and ended up in Stanhope and a very steep climb up the B6278 to rejoin the main route ! The disused incline was tough but not too long, some riders had to walk. The ride across Stanhope Common was superb, great views and easy Pedalling. In different conditions though it will be bleak. The Waskerley Way was again easy, we reach some good speeds on this stretch assisted by our tailwind of course ! The hardest part of our journey were now behind us. Dave's chain broke again so we removed a link and it lasted the remainder of the ride. Since this section was easy we arranged a stop at Rowlands Gill and a chance to regroup for lunch. The split in routes just before Consett was almost missed, there is no obvious signpost indicating which route for Sunderland and which for Tynemouth. We carefully studied our maps and pressed on. The Derwent Walkway was also very easy allowing a fast ride to Rowlands Gill.

After lunch in the caravan park and fixing our only puncture of the trip we completed the Derwent Walk and arrived in the Tyne Valley. Navigating is always harder in cities and we almost went wrong again. We decided not to cross the Tyne at Blaydon but to take the Keelmans Way to Gateshead, remaining on the south side of the Tyne as far as the Tyne Tunnel. This section is not very picturesque passing factories, scrap yards and all the usual unpleasant things you find alongside an industrial river. It was here I discovered my rear rim was cracked and starting to break, a curious knocking sound alerted me when I applied my rear brake. With about a dozen miles left I continued and it was OK.

The signs let us down again in North Shields, thankfully one of the group had a detailed guide to the ride which proved its worth on several occasions. What is failed to tell us though was the dates of the Fish Quay Festival, which this year coincided with our ride. Since the C2C route is along the Fish Quay at North Shields we had to struggle through large crowds to complete our ride. We ceremoniously dipped our wheels in the North Sea to mark the end of out journey. All that remained was the traditional fish and chips !