Workington - Tynemouth - a trip report
by Martin Newstead
I have now completed the Sustrans Coast to Coast
(C2C) twice with more or less the same group of people. One of
our party is a veteran of 3 rides. We are a mixed bunch of cyclists
riding very differing machines, Mike brought along his road bike,
Kevin his full suspension Marin and me my 10 year old Bromwich
mountain bike. Eight of us cycled this year, Mike, Kevin, Derrick,
Steve, Dave, Joe, Trevor and myself. Jeremy managed our logistics
providing support during the ride and transportation to and from
the start and finish. Craig assisted him with his car. Four of
us participated in last years ride from Whitehaven to Sunderland.
Jeremy was also our cook at the campsite, his barbecues are a must
!
The bank holiday weekend was a popular one for C2C'ers,
three days is about right for the ride for most people. All sorts
of bikes can be seen on the roads but I would recommend a mountain
bike fitted with slick tyres, some of the old railway tracks are
a little too rough for comfort on a road bike and then you'd have
to walk or miss out on the best sections.
Weather: Drizzle and cool
Lining
up at the start on Workington Beach
Left to Right Joe, Kev, Trevor, Me, Dave, Steve, Derrick and Mike
We began with finding the beach to dip our tyres
in the Irish Sea then commenced our journey. The ride from Workington
was easy, almost immediately we were on a converted railway though
we still managed to get lost before five miles had been covered.
We were supposed to branch off the track just before Camerton but
none of us saw a sign. Thankfully our route stopped dead which
caused us to check maps and realise our mistake ! In this first
five miles we had our first incidents with animals. Some people
were walking Beagles on the track and one dog just kept trotting
along in front of us believing we were chasing him. He finally
found a hole in the hedge and darted in, all he had to do was stop
and we would ride past ! The second incident was a little less
humorous. I was descending from Camerton on a wet road with slick
tyres and black dog leapt into my path from the hedge, I jammed
my brakes on, locked my rear wheel and skidded, thankfully the
dog ran across the road and I avoided a crash, my friends were
close behind so they would have hit me too.
We had our first stop in Cockermouth
for water and food. We got lost leaving Cockermouth. Immediately
after departing
we took a wrong turn, losing the signs completely. We spent about
half an hour debating and trying different roads until we found
the main route again, the signing here is poor to say the least.
It was an easy ride then to Wythop Woods where the route goes offroad
culminating in a fast descent on a track about 2 feet wide and
rocky in places. Poor Mike on his road bike had to walk, no alternative
is marked on the map and no warnings are given. Our group disintegrated
here and we arrived in Keswick in drips and drabs. The town was
very busy as Saturday is market day and it took along time to meet
Jeremy with the van. We lunched outside of the cyclists café,
outside because they were so busy, we bought our lunch in the bakery
in the main street. There is another café nearby which does
take away drinks too. These are all located across the large car
park on the right hand side of the C2C route (A591) as it passes
through Keswick.
Since we decided not to ride the Old Coach Road we
took the easy alternative off-road route directly to Threlkeld
then on to Troutbeck thus avoiding the climb to Castlerigg Stone
Circle. The route however was not easy on one of our group. Kevin
fell on a short steep climb and could not continue his ride.
Weather: Sunny with strong tailwind
A
superb view from (I think) the road that extends the 'Old Coach
Road' that we took at the start of day 2.
This is marked as an alternative on the Sustrans map and rejoins the main route
at Greystoke
We decided to ride down to Matterdale End and continue
the ride with the alternative route which extends the Old Coach
Road. We used the Old Coach Road last year which proved to be tough
with lots of walking and pushing at the end of a long day. We elected
to omit it this year. Our detour made up for the short day yesterday
with about 5 extra miles, a long climb followed by a fast downhill.
The views we great from the top and we rejoined the main route
at Greystoke. We sped through Penrith and rendezvoused with Jeremy
just outside Edenhall for water and bananas then on to the climb
of Hartside shortly after that. I used the offroad path, including
the rough track last year so this time I took the tarmac alternative
all the way to the summit. The last stretch of the track is unrideable
in my opinion and not worth it despite looking shorter on the map,
I do not like pushing my bike ! The road climb went well for me,
a steady tempo all the way passing a lot of struggling riders.
The tailwind helped !
After a good rest, sandwiches and tea at Hartside
we continued with the superb descent to Leadgate and Garrigill.
After a short push out of Garrigill we climbed again alongside
a wood to the top of the moor. Dave's chain snapped here so we
had an enforced rest while we fixed it using two rocks as makeshift
hammer and anvil. Since last year some sandstone rocks have been
laid along the track which make for fun riding. The way looks much
harder that it actually was . The descent through the old mines
is exhilarating, not as dangerous as I remember from last year
as the rocks seemed to be more compacted making the surface a little
easier.
Weather: Misty, clearing to sunshine with strong tailwind
This
is the view as you descend from Hartside through Leadgate down
to Garrigill The descent is fantastic but don't admire the view
for too long as the road is quite twisted !
(Mike stopped to take this picture)
Another early start and some serious climbing in
the first 15 miles. All the climbs felt easier than last year probably
due to the tailwind and less beer the previous evening. We made
great time. We even managed not to get lost ! Last year I missed
the turn in Rookhope and ended up in Stanhope and a very steep
climb up the B6278 to rejoin the main route ! The disused incline
was tough but not too long, some riders had to walk. The ride across
Stanhope Common was superb, great views and easy Pedalling. In
different conditions though it will be bleak. The Waskerley Way
was again easy, we reach some good speeds on this stretch assisted
by our tailwind of course ! The hardest part of our journey were
now behind us. Dave's chain broke again so we removed a link and
it lasted the remainder of the ride. Since this section was easy
we arranged a stop at Rowlands Gill and a chance to regroup for
lunch. The split in routes just before Consett was almost missed,
there is no obvious signpost indicating which route for Sunderland
and which for Tynemouth. We carefully studied our maps and pressed
on. The Derwent Walkway was also very easy allowing a fast ride
to Rowlands Gill.
After lunch in the caravan park and fixing our only
puncture of the trip we completed the Derwent Walk and arrived
in the Tyne Valley. Navigating is always harder in cities and we
almost went wrong again. We decided not to cross the Tyne at Blaydon
but to take the Keelmans Way to Gateshead, remaining on the south
side of the Tyne as far as the Tyne Tunnel. This section is not
very picturesque passing factories, scrap yards and all the usual
unpleasant things you find alongside an industrial river. It was
here I discovered my rear rim was cracked and starting to break,
a curious knocking sound alerted me when I applied my rear brake.
With about a dozen miles left I continued and it was OK.
The signs let us down again in North Shields, thankfully
one of the group had a detailed guide to the ride which proved
its worth on several occasions. What is failed to tell us though
was the dates of the Fish Quay Festival, which this year coincided
with our ride. Since the C2C route is along the Fish Quay at North
Shields we had to struggle through large crowds to complete our
ride. We ceremoniously dipped our wheels in the North Sea to mark
the end of out journey. All that remained was the traditional fish
and chips !
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