Riding the C2C – July 2005
Michael and Kim Eakin

We are 40-something (me (Michael) at the higher end, Kim at the lower) parents, who, having got rid of our daughters on a school trip for three days, figured the C2C would be just the way to use the time. We enjoy recreational cycling – we’ve done some of the charity rides, and try and get out when we can at weekends in the countryside where we live at the bottom of South Manchester. But until now we hadn’t done a full cycling trip like this one.

Day One
Day one started at 5.15 in the morning as we cycled the 11 miles from home to Warrington station, to get the Carlisle train. The morning sun rose behind us as we sped down the Trans Pennine trail. This was pretty much the last flat road we’d face for two days.

We changed trains in Carlisle and got the local train to Workington. There were two other bikes on the train, owned by two lads from Newcastle who were celebrating the completion of their A levels by doing the C2C over the next four days. Their first task, however, was to find a bike shop in Workington to fix one of their pedals which had fallen off before they had reached Newcastle station. Our first task was to find the town’s bookshop. They had kindly reserved a copy of the c2c map when we’d phoned two days earlier, after our local Waterstone’s had failed to deliver their order as promised. As well as the map, our guide for the trip was The Ultimate C2C Guide, which proved to be an invaluable book. We also had photocopies of the relevant sections of half a dozen OS maps. Getting these had been a major logistical exercise at Altrincham library, watched over by a disapproving librarian who at various times pointed out that A3 copies, or more than 4 copies from each map, were strictly forbidden.

The sun may have been shining at half five, but by the time we made it to Workington lighthouse at 10 a.m., a light grey drizzle had set in. After several dry and sunny weeks, I had briefly considered leaving my rainwear at home, as part of our mission for minimal baggage. But here we were, wearing it from the start.


We negotiated our way out of Workington, taking the straight forward road route towards the off-road path to Seaton, rather than the slightly tortuous official route over the railway line. Half a mile gone, and already breaking from the official path… The Derwent Valley road from Camerton to Penrith was lovely, but surprisingly up and down. Still, we got to Cockermouth for 11.15, just as it started raining again. We popped into the National Trust’s recently opened Wordsworth House. It is an attractive Georgian house, but the Wordsworth connection is pretty tenuous. He was born there, but left when he was 13, and there are no original Wordsworth artefacts. We then had soup and a sandwich in a nearby café, before hitting the road again at quarter to one.

After six miles or so of pleasant, gently rising road cycling, we took the uphill track through fields towards Wythop Woods, the sun now shining. This steep, rocky, descent through the woods was made even trickier than it would normally be by the earlier rain, which made the rocks and earth slippery under the wheels. But it was great fun coming down, especially when suddenly the path opened out to show a spectacular view across Bassenthwaite Lake below us. The steep descent continued right down to the lakeside. From there we took the lovely road through Branthwaite and Ullock, skirting Derwent Water and into Keswick.

After two hours or so between Cockermouth and Keswick during which we’d hardly encountered a walker or cyclist, never mind a car, Keswick in July was a rude awakening. It was heaving, the usual holiday crowds swollen still further by a large Christian convention. We felt no temptation to stick around, so kept cycling straight through, past the leisure centre and the old railway station and onto the path along the former railway line. We didn’t stay on it long, however, opting instead to take the steep road up to the Castlerigg Stone Circle. For the first, but certainly not the last, time, we opted to walk rather than pedal.

We got to the Stone Circle at about 3.15. I had imagined somewhere deserted and isolated, but there was a steady stream of visitors. It is an impressive site, with superb views in all directions. You could see why whoever had placed the stones there had chosen this place, high on a plateau and surrounded by stunning landscapes. We rested by the stones for half an hour or so, took on an apple and a Mars bar, and headed off towards Penrith. The descent to Threlkeld was superb, hitting 35 mph as we made it down to the A66. We had long ago decided that we would not be taking the Old Coach Road, which we could see snaking across the fells to our right. Instead we took the road option, turning off the main road to Scales to take the valley road to Mungrisdale. The minor road through Southe Fell Farm was great, with views across the valley, and some good downhills – unfortunately interrupted by about half a dozen gates which brought us to a grinding halt every time we were building up some momentum.

It had been a sunny afternoon, but as we arrived in Mungrisdale, the drizzle started again. This forced us, with the deepest reluctance, to stop for a couple of beers at the Mill Inn, as the rain passed. After the pub we cycled through the village, had a look at the tiny church, made way for a flock of sheep being herded down the lane, and rode on the minor road through Berrier to rejoin the route proper a couple of miles before Greystoke.

It was past six o’clock now, and the evening sun was lighting the hills. But we were feeling it in our legs by now (the two pints probably hadn’t helped) and were keen to get to Penrith, our stop for the night. Straight through the attractive looking Greystoke, then, without stopping, and on to Blencow, past the bizarre but rather impressive hall built into a ruined castle. Through the University of Central Lancashire campus (full of summer language students), under the motorway, along a track, and suddenly we were in Penrith. Our destination was dead easy to find; Brooklands Guest house is right by the route, and we arrived there at ten to seven. We had cycled some 62 miles since leaving home, and averaged nine and a half mph.

The guesthouse was very welcoming at the end of the day. The owners, Leon and Debbie, have clearly worked hard to do it up well. After resting and washing, we ended up the day with a brief walk around the town, and a decent curry at the Indiagate restaurant.

Day 2
Started with an excellent breakfast. We chatted to Dave, John and Linda who were also staying there. Dave and John were doing the ride (Whitehaven to Sunderland) and John’s wife/Dave’s sister, Linda, was providing the backup and luggage transfer. We left shortly after them, but knowing we’d see them at Allenheads if not before, as, coincidentally, we’d both booked into the same B and B there that night.

As we left Penrith the rain started again, though it didn’t last too long. The day started immediately with the climb out of town up towards, and then skirting round, Beacon Hill. The view was of grey clouds and rain. The rain eased as we came down the steep descent towards Langwathby, taking it easy on the wet roads and tight bends. In Little Salkeld we stopped at the excellent Watermill, with a small café, craft shop, and a fine line in organic flours. Carrying a sack on the back of the bike wasn’t really an option, but they do have mail order. We had a chat with the miller, who let us look at the machinery working away. He took some convincing that we were doing the C2C because he reckoned we didn’t have anything like enough luggage. He’d done the ride a couple of years earlier, and warned us about the climb to Hartside ahead.

But first we stopped at Long Meg just a mile up the road. Our second stone circle of the trip; this one much quieter than the first, although as we arrived, we passed a lone cyclist on a road bike and with a large rucksack, who had also been at Castlerigg the day before.

The road from there to Renwick, over Viol Moor was great. Off to our right we could see the fells looming, the highest point shrouded in mist. And then, a right turn, and we were climbing. Lovely quiet road, but we cycled some and walked the rest. Eventually we reached the main road. It was cold and windy on top, with still some spits of rain. But the main road section really is OK. It’s a steady and manageable climb, and there was a lot less traffic than we expected. We got to the café at 1.15pm, to find John Dave and Linda just leaving. The café was quiet, and the plates of chips and beans welcome. We talked to one cyclist who was doing a bespoke version of the ride, which was taking to him to various towns to sing with the local choir, ending up at the Sage Gateshead. We left at about 2 o’clock, shortly after a busload of Scottish pensioners turned up for a quick cup of tea and a toilet break. We took the obligatory photos by the Hartside Top sign, only just managing to avoid being blown over. The winds were strong, but, fortunately, Westerlies, so going in the right direction.

All downhill to Leadgate, hitting 40 mph with the brakes on. The Ultimate C2C guide describes the road to Garrigill as ‘lovely’ and ‘undulating’. Right on both counts, but the undulations were particularly noticeable after all those chips and beans. It was the road out of Garrigill that did for us, however, as another brief shower passed. We walked most of the 2 miles uphill. It was pleasant enough, mind. We weren’t in any kind of a hurry; the scenery was good, and the road, like almost everyone on this route, blissfully free of traffic. The climb was neutralised with the short steep descent to Nenthead. Another rain shower as we arrived added to its forlorn and gloomy impression. We pressed on, again walking up the hill out and above the mining works, to the highest point, Black Hill. Quick photo, and down on the wet roads, before another rise with Killhope Law to our right. It was now wet and grey and definitely raining, so Killhope Law seemed a decidedly appropriate name. But the rain stopped, and the downhill run into Allenheads hinted at brighter weather to come.

We arrived at Allenheads at quarter to five, definitely looking forward to a pint. Catastrophe struck when we discovered that the Allenheads Inn is closed form 4 till 7 pm. So we made it up the steep hill to our B and B, Newhouses. We had only done 35 miles today, so felt fine – but it was tough and often spectacular terrain so our average had fallen to 9 mph. Not exactly Lance Armstrong, but we were doing fine. We rested in the B and B, and hooked up with Dave John and Linda again before we all went down to the Inn for 7 o’clock (not that we were desperate or anything). We had a good evening – game of pool, decent food, and good beer. Plenty of conversation too including with another couple doing the route over 4 days.

Day 3
Day three started with glorious sunshine and blue skies as far as the eye could see. Only joking. It was grey, cold and breezy. But the rain was behind us now, and as the day went on it did indeed become brighter and warmer.

After breakfast we hit the road at about 9.20, just behind John and Dave. We started by walking some of the ascent immediately out of Allenheads.

As we approached the top, we could see John and Dave up ahead of us, and two cyclists (presumably the couple from the pub) behind - all pushing our bikes. The road to Rookhope is fascinating; rolling moors littered with old industrial works and ruins. And the view got even more spectacular when we took the off-road option out of Rookhope. The steep, rocky path (which we walked of course) headed up the hill towards the railway building ruin on the top which marks the former line that used to run across the moor.

The view back across the Rookhope valley was great, especially as the hills were now splashed with intermittent sunshine breaking through the clouds. As well as looking at the view, we also kept our eyes on the ground, after the slightly alarming warning at the beginning of the path, which told us that if we got bitten by an adder we should head straight for the nearest hospital. Nice to know

The ride along the top, to Parkhead station, was fantastic – my favourite bit of the whole ride. The views were glorious. The first half was very easy cycling on a wide smooth path. No sound but the air rushing past our ears. The wind literally pushing us along the slight decline. Top of the world. Halfway along, the path gets much narrower and a little more technical. There was still no need for me to take a dip slightly too fast, however, and end up arse over tit in the heather, my bike and baggage strewn over the path. Fortunately, there was no damage other than a grazed and slightly bleeding knee, and bruised pride.

Parkhead station is by the B6278, at the intersection of the off road path, and the Waskerley Way. We got there a little before 11.30 (12 miles in two hours!) and stopped for coffee. The owners have clearly made it a labour of love to do it up and run it for their cycling clientele. It was the one place on the route which really felt like a cyclists’ stop. We chatted with the owner, who sprayed my knee with antiseptic (which stung like hell), drank coffee, bought a couple of C2C tee shirts, and left half an hour later, just as a Scandinavian family arrived laden with enough luggage to suggest that they were spending the summer on their bikes and camping.

As the guy at Parkhead had said, it is all downhill from there. It was very easy cycling – in truth, to a fault. After a while cycleways on old railway lines can get a little dull, and for the next 20 miles or more there wasn’t a lot of variety. Suddenly it would have been nice to have one of those challenging climbs again. We made it quickly to Consett, via the slightly scary Hownsgill Viaduct, and the bizarre Terris Novalis public art piece, and the even more bizarre sight of an old smelt wagon parked in front of a Barrett homes estate. On along the wooded Derwent Walk, as far as Ebchester, where we stopped at the pub for lunch.

Given that you are entering a major city, the run into Newcastle is surprisingly rural, still running on paths by the Derwent, all the way to the Tyne. We crossed by the North Bank, along a surprisingly and pleasingly short main road section, before joining the riverside path all the way in.

We got to the Millennium Bridge at about 3.45 pm. Completists look away now. We had never intended to cycle the further 22 miles return trip to Tynemouth. Instead we cycled over the bridge, parked our bikes, and took a look at Gateshead’s new twin temples of culture, the Baltic and the Sage. Then it was the short ride up to the station for our scheduled three trains back, all of which ran to time and got us home by 10 o’clock, just 15 minutes ahead of the girls returning from their school trip. It had been three great days, 140 odd miles over around 15 hours cycling along a route which reminded us what a beautiful (if climatically unpredictable) country this is.

And finally, our top tips

1. Don’t just rely on the C2C strip maps – take the Ultimate Guide, and, if you can, relevant OS sections as well.

2. Almost all of our food and rest stops were very good, but especially do call in At Parkhead station.

3. Take the off road option out of Rookhope if the weather is OK and you have a suitable bike.