C2C 2003
140 miles – 224 k – 3 days

Whitehaven. Crap town but great people !! Very friendly and helpful, I’m impressed.
Fish & chips with Chris & Jo at the harbour. Feel kind of abandoned when they drive off, Whitehaven is a bit of a dump, Fee’s not feeling too good and I guess we’re nervous about the trip and want to be on our way…

We dip our wheels into the Irish Sea, have a laugh when we nearly can’t make it back up the incline because the bikes are heavy, then off to the first B&B. I’m relieved we don’t have to share with anyone else as Fee said it sometimes happens!

We decide to walk back into town, first bit of exercise for Fiona after what we call the Hong Kong virus (in fact a terrible terrible cold !). We buy food in a little shop and walk back to the room to dunk Hob Nobs in tea and watch football in bed. We learn that the Rangers, our hockey team, have asked Maddy to play : Helen and Paul are at a wedding and we’re doing the C2C. Oops.

Day 1 : Whitehaven – Penrith 54 miles/87k
Great weather, we can’t wait to get started after breakfast. Easy riding up above Loweswater lake, great views, the first Fell pony of our trip gives Fee a kiss and tries to eat the paniers ! Up Whinlatter pass and Fiona gets a fever rush on the first big hill. I could fill up my bottle with the water dripping from her face and find it a bit worrying. We decide to stay on the road all the way to Keswick. I start thinking about lunch.

Keswick is a great looking town, with loads of climbing and outdoor shops, we have lunch at the Lakeland Pedlar, veggie cafe and bike shop we found on the C2C website. Fee looks a lot better and says she’s not fighting fit but will be fine. I think she’s doing great and wonder how fast we’d be going if she wasn’t still recovering from the Hong Kong plague !

After lunch we carry on towards Penrith, beautiful countryside (I say beautiful a hell of a lot !) and great farm smells along the way. It’s a long day with a lot of distance and by the time we get there I’m only thinking of Deep Heat and Hob Nobs in tea!

I love the B&B ! We collapse on the beds for a bit and get a lovely picture text from Jo and a call from Chris, except I can’t really talk to him because my brain’s dead. He says he’s chuffed with us though and that brings some energy back!

We have a shower and head to the pub for a couple of beers and a basket of chips. Back to the room and it takes me 5 seconds to fall asleep after the Deep Heat session.

Day 2 : Penrith – Allenheads 35 miles/56k
Big Hills Day !! This is my favourite day because I love hills which I am told makes me a sad individual. Fee’s nickname is now Little Mountain Goat. We are on Granny gear for most of the day.

We climb out of Penrith, great warm-up straight after the best breakfast of the trip (for me). Fee says she used to be able to have a full breakfast, plus cereals, plus toast and jam, and I think she is a pig but then do exactly that ! An hour into our ride and I am ready for food again.

We go off road near Renwick, beautiful but steep and Fee can’t keep her front wheel down because of the paniers. We don’t want to have to push so decide we won’t do the off road bit going up Hartside but will stay on the road. We reach Hartside summit, big view, windy, loads of bikers, we stop for 2 cups of tea and flapjacks. I have now decided that Flapjacks and Hob Nobs are the greatest food in the world and will not waste money on Isostar bars anymore.

Our beloved captain Sue is sending us a text because we are missing the hockey game against the Rottweilers. Maddy’s playing, our beloved coach Andy says he doesn’t care if we don’t come back because Mads can easily replace us both!

Going down Hartside we break the speed record established in Shepshed!! Overall speed record for this trip will be 41 mph/65.6k, we can’t go too fast because we have weight on the bikes and don’t want to crash before Sunderland. At 1 o’clock we have a big thought for the Rangers who have just started the game !!!

Outstanding views and beautiful landscapes along the climbs of Garrigill, Nenthead and Black Hill which is the highest point of the C2C. From up there we try to text Sue and Mads for the Rangers’ game result but we can’t get a signal.

I am having the time of my life on granny gear, meditate on the hills, decide I want to become a mountain-biking shepherd, and ask funny things, like is the beautiful rock fence that’s been going on for miles man-made ? Fee makes me laugh and I can’t breathe and she reaches the top of the hill first !!

Spooky B&B in Allenheads, the Old School House, which is really an old school, huge, with plenty of doors and no locks on any of them. We have a great evening in the only pub in town, huge dinner, we play pool and darts with Phil the barman and the Scottish psychopath. I tell Phil we’re going to say he’s really crap at pool on the C2C web site.

We nearly walk out of Allenheads and then into a field after the pub because it is so dark ! Want to ring Chris because after a few drinks the B&B is very very spooky and we’re convinced we’ll get murdered. Fee spends the night with the first aid kit scissors under her pillow and she goes to the loo without telling me (because I am blind as a bat and would be no help at all in case of an attack she says.) I am not impressed but glad to wake up in one piece the next morning.

Day 3 : Allenheads – Sunderland 51 miles/82k
We meet Chris outside of Allenheads and it is great to see him and tell him about our spooky night ! He takes a couple of pics and then we’re on our way, and I feel a bit sad because we’re leaving the mountains and isolated roads and heading for the coast and industrial areas…

Major road outside of Stanhope that seems to be going up forever. I say I wonder what there is behind that hill, Fee’s leading and soon announces that behind that hill is another $#*@&%$ hill !

Finally we reach the Waskerly way and start going down on a fast track. We stop about halfway and have Hob Nobs and comment on the cloud of pollution we can see ahead of us that signals the coast and industrial towns and the end of the trip: I want to turn around and go back to the mountains !

Near Stanley we get a bit lost but hook up with local bikers and they ride with us for quite a bit. We’re very grateful because we don’t really want to get lost so close to Sunderland. We’re 20 miles to the finish. The last 20 I find quite annoying, because it is Sunday and a lot of people are riding or walking the path and the NCN fences are a bit of a pain, we have to stop and get off the bikes every time and can’t get into a nice rhythm… Through Beamish on the path we see the metal cows and horses that are part of the NCN artwork.

We can see the sea !! I start thinking about the finish and get a flat 3 miles from the harbour. My first and only **** of the entire trip, and I nearly throw the bike in the ditch ! Soon we’re riding past the stadium and into the Marina and down to the beach and Chris is there to welcome us with hugs and champagne. We have the best support team ever!!

We dip our wheels in the North Sea and have a big Team Kiwi hug! I am dead proud of us. Surprise surprise we are starving. We get home and have Chinese, the Rangers have drawn 1-1, I go to bed and dream about flapjacks and big hills !


THE END