I returned to cycling in 2004 after a 19-year gap. I saw The C2C Guide and was
hooked. I decided to ride, solo and unsupported, over two days, including travelling
to and from Liverpool. My plan was to follow the official route but only take
one off-road option (Whinlatter Forest). I travelled with the minimum of kit
and made use of energy powders and energy bars most of the way.
 Mileage
= 79.6 miles
Weather: Generally bright and dry
Left Liverpool at 6.30am and arrived at “Parking@Parton” for 9.30am, after good
drive. I shared a nice cup of coffee with Jim Hewitson. He even accompanied me
down to the start and took pictures of my ‘wheel dipping’. Thanks Jim!
Finally started at around 10.15am. I needed to make it to Garigill before 8.15pm
to eat. The ride to Keswick was fine through the
nice scenery of Loweswater and Lorton. Had to stop half way up the climb out
of Lorton – very steep. I was disappointed at the route through Whinlatter Forest
and regretted not simply staying on the B-road into Keswick.
From Keswick to Penrith, I made good progress but got briefly lost in Penrith.
The climbs out of Penrith were short but steep. As I cycled through Langwathby
I should have stopped but was starting to worry about time - so I pushed on.
I arrived in Renwick to the smell of fish and chips from a mobile van. I was
really tempted to buy some chips but Hartside was ahead. I bought a large fruit
juice instead, which I drank in about ten seconds. The shop owner was amused
when I went back for another.
The road from Renwick to the A686 for Hartside was very steep at one point and
I had to push. Ironically, the main climb itself was okay. Long but steady. A
low gear and I made 5 to 6mph all the way up.
By the time I reached the Hartside cafe it was getting late. The twilight descent
into Garigill was a bit hairy. I arrived just in time to get some food from the
George and Dragon, although I didn’t have time to change. The food and beer were
great.
I was in my bed at the Post Office B+B by ten, tired but happy!
Mileage: unknown -cycle computer failed- (due to rain I think)
Weather: absolutely awful – heavy rain all day and moderate to strong headwind
all day.
 I
was woken a few times during the night by heavy rain. “Good” I thought “it
will rain it self out by the morning”. I ate my breakfast watching
the rain bounce off the pavements. The weather forecast on TV made
it clear I was going to get very wet. More worrying was the wind
direction a strong Easterly was forecast.
The climb out of Garigill towards Nenthead was steep and the strong headwind
and driving rain did not help. I crouched behind a wall to call my wife. “I’m
fine,” I shouted as the rain blew sideways. It was cold for September, with the
rain and wind-chill. Nenthead was quiet and there was no time to stop at the
Miners Arms. The headwind and rain over Black Hill was simply dreadful and I
pushed some way up. It had rained heavily all day and now I was cycling through
mist. To add insult t injury, my cycle computer had stopped registering movement
and was flashing random numbers.
 Allenheads
was deserted and as I arrived in Rookhope my arms and back were aching
with the damp and wind. This was despite wearing a thermal base layer,
cycle shirt and waterproof. Rookhope was where it started to go wrong
for me. I had intended to take the Stanhope option round to the Waskerley
Way. As I approached the Rookhope Inn a couple of C2Cers came out
and headed up the official (rough) route. After a brief stop, I followed
them past the official C2C sign without checking my soggy map. It
was a hard push upwards on the first section into a strong headwind
with driving rain and the track was too bumpy for my hybrid. When
the three of us reached the B6278 we quickly checked the map and
agreed that we needed to turn left (wrong!). I took-off quickly as
my chance of catching the 4pm train from Sunderland to Whitehaven
was looking remote. As I rapidly descended, it was raining and blowing
so hard that it was stinging my face and I soon realised I was going
the wrong way. I came to a halt in Blanchland. I didn’t fancy retracing
my steps back uphill for a couple of miles so I took a long and lonely
diversion around the Derwent Reservoir, onto the A68 and eventually
into Consett.
 It
took me ages to pick-up the route again and passers by were unable
to help much (was it me or were some of the signs in and around Consett
pointing the wrong way?). I eventually spotted the Terris Novalis
in the distance and carried my bike up a muddy bank to rejoin the
path. By now I was low on water and food, having missed my planned
stop at Stanhope and I was annoyed at not seeing the Hownsgill Viaduct.
The rest of the ride in to Sunderland was a blur. The scenery was
ordinary after day one but remarkably green most of the way. A few
miles before the finish I bonked quite spectacularly and slowed to
a walking pace. Luckily I spotted a garage on a roundabout nearby.
I staggered in, bought three cakes, two large hot chocolates and
then sat on the floor to polish them off (got some very funny looks
at this point). When I reached the finish, around 6pm, I couldn’t
dip my front wheel in the North Sea as the waves were literally crashing
over the sea walls. A couple of phone calls secured a B+B on Roker
Terrace where I dried my belongings. I was happy to have finished
but the day had been completely ruined by the weather. The following
morning it was still raining steadily as I cycled to Sunderland station.
I did eventually see the sun after the train passed Carlisle.
I’m determined to do the C2C again, probably over three days. It’s quite possible
to do a 2-day trip with a reasonable level of fitness. However, the extra days
is a better option if you want to actually enjoy the ride! Despite studying the
profiles closely, it was still harder and hillier than I imagined. It was the
short, very steep sections that got me, particularly as I was carrying food and
luggage.
Some parts of the route are very well signposted. Other parts are not so good.
You need a map and, more importantly, you need to check it carefully, no matter
how bad the weather!
I was surprised by how few C2Cers there were; even though it was midweek. I saw
only a handful of cyclists the whole way.
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