Intended
route:- Workington to Tynemouth (134 miles)
Actual
route:- Whitehaven to Workington to Tynemouth (including
diversion at Whitehaven & sightseeing at Castlerigg) 166.6
miles.
Chosen
weapons:- Simon, Dawes adventurer hybrid (with 28”
wheels, AKA penny farthing)
Paul:- Merlin malt, mountain bike (newer but the only one to get
a puncture)
Getting up after 2.5 hrs sleep
was never going to feel like fun (aren’t nights great!),
but the anticipation and the fear of being late for the train
kind of eased the lethargy. So after gathering the very tightly
packed Tardis cycle luggage bag and donning the stylish bum bag
it was game on, up through Rolleston to see if Simon was going
to make it ! Somehow with all the discussions and date changes
it was only going to be starting off that would confirm we were
going to actually do it.
Through my sleep deprived eyes I made out the distinctive curves
of Simon and his steed complete with packed panniers waiting in
the bus shelter. After dealing with the final bit of ridicule
from local builder Mr Marshall we were off to Burton station.
The train to Brum was late so we were a little worried about missing
the Carlisle train at New st. but after a quick check on the monitor
when we arrived it gave us a bit of time so we found the lift
& got to the platform only to hear that our train was at another
one so back to the lift and quickly to the proper one. We hung
our bikes in one side and a couple hung theirs in the other side,
4 bikes being the total capacity, good job Simon booked.
Journey to Carlisle was quite quick then we were waiting for the
Workington train. We got on board and we were relieved to be the
only bikers so plenty of room. It was realised that the same train
would go through Workington and on to Whitehaven so we carried
on, thinking it would be good to dip wheels at both start points
with an extra ride in between, the ticket man said there was no
extra charge for the extra few miles. Keeping close to the harbour
we kept looking for the big C2C sign which we managed to miss
so we had to look in the guide and work it out from the photo
so eventually we got there.
The slipway to the sea was exactly that, very slippy and later
on we learned that another C2C’er had slipped into the sea
bike ‘n’ all! We were then searching for the Zest
café for the first stamp, which after a lap of the town
we found a few yards from the big sign, Doh! (Look out for the
blue ‘Z’) We decided this establishment was somewhat
overstaffed as there seemed to be at least 8 waiters/waitresses
on top of the bar and kitchen staff. One ceasar salad and a bottle
later and we were off to get to Workington before it got dark.
At this point the signs were not very clear and we ended up following
a route out through some council estates.
Around one bend there was an underpass and a corner up a slope
which was blocked off with a piece of 3’ x 2’ across
a low wall with 3 guilty looking youngsters nearby, I started
to knock the wood off the wall and they came to drag it out of
the way saying that someone else must have put it there……..right!
On we went past yet another Rugby pitch and out through a park
where the route split but it appeared that Workington was not
one of the destinations on the steel waymarkers but we carried
on until we met a bloke walking his dog who smirked when asked
if it was the right way and pointed towards the way we had come,
saying that we should head for the path past the Focus store which
was right back at the outskirts of Whitehaven! So back we went
until right back at the harbour side again, retracing our route
back to the station we eventually saw the right sign and off we
went as the sun was setting towards our first stop at Workington.
We found the signs for the suburb in which were staying quite
quickly but we were determined to dip our wheels that evening
at Workington too. We headed across some railway tracks and came
to a security hut where the guard proceeded to tell us the way
round, the description involved about 40 moves but by the 4th
we were confused so we politely escaped resigned to dipping wheels
in the morning
It was nearly dark now so we carried on up towards Morven house
just on the pavements, past the brightly lit shopping place and
eventually there was our first rest place. We noted an abundance
of wind turbines and large shiney storage tanks near this ‘Hotel’.
We placed our bikes in the secure lock-up then went to sign in
looking forward to a pint but when asked it turned out that the
lock up used to be the bar so we would have to venture into town
if we wanted a drink.
The best we could manage was to have cup of tea each whilst listening
to the news of Pavarotti’s imminent demise. A quick shower
then to bed ready for the first day to Threlkeld.
In the morning it appeared that Simon had been disturbed somewhat
by my snoring…….now come on, no sleep, a train journey,
an extra 20 miles, I think I deserved to snore!
Breakfast was good, cereal and full English with lots of tea.
After topping up the bottles and a quick photo we were off to
dual with the traffic which was a lot busier than the previous
evening. We headed towards the Island at the end of the road to
go to the start point which wasn’t very well marked and
the map wasn’t that clear either.
A local dog walker helped us out so we turned round and headed
to the lighthouse with C2C signs on it. A policeman was nearby
reading a paper in his car so it looked like nothing much happened
round Workington.
Wheels dipped, pebbles collected, photo’s taken we proceeded
back to start at the cycle path only to see the police car racing
away sirens blazing, obviously clearing our route! The path was
quite well marked initially and was heading towards a railway
at which point it was unclear again, we ended up carrying the
bikes up some steps to a very narrow path alongside the goods
line and across a bridge which seemed to have metal breadbaskets
attached to the sides which were the same width as my bars so
I had to push the bike along on the back wheel to keep the bars
from snagging. Simons was a tad narrower so he was ok.
Onwards toward the islands where the route was a little vague
again until going along the main road after which we turned onto
the proper path. This path must have been an old railway track
but it was on a slight incline so not particularly fast. We were
amazed at the amount and variety of dogs (and owners) along this
stretch and being in front I was on Turd alert, I didn’t
fancy doing a puncture if the tyre was rancid.
Out through Seaton & Camerton towards Great Broughton and
the scenery was starting to improve. I Saw a red squirrel real
close up in the hedge but not long enough for a picture. Through
to Cockermouth and the signs were ok until diverting to the co-op
for a stamp, had to double back. Onward toward Wythop Mill and
improving views then the first climb. It was quite warm and still
so the sweat started in earnest, a pause at the top for a drink
and a chat with a well spoken old dear who lives at Wythop cottage
then through to the gated track to the top of the woods.
It was so quiet up there, photo’s and another swig then
onto the steep descent, it has to be said, hydraulic discs are
great! So progressive and controllable even on wet stones and
slate. The hairpin halfway down is the first spot where the trees
open out and a great view of Bassenthwaite with Skiddaw behind…..fantastic!
Down to the bottom past some unusually friendly ramblers and through
to Braithwaite. The Royal Oak was beckoning so stopping for a
fine pint of Jennings and a few chips we took in the views of
the surrounding peaks then proceeded to send texts to wind up
those back home. Keswick was next and it was quite busy which
was a slight shock after the empty lanes beforehand. Sandwiches
collected we headed to Derwent water for lunch.
Signs were a bit unclear at the swimming baths at which point
my front tyre was noticeably squashy so at the start of the old
railway track I applied some more wind and set off for Threlkeld.
I pushed on while Simon took a few piccys but when the excellent
track over lots of iron bridges ended I found I was right next
to the A66 Threlkeld turn off and opposite a road to Castlerigg
stone circle. I pumped some more air in then Simon arrived so
we went to the circle which had a couple of stiff climbs leading
to it. The views were great all round and we wanted to get to
the centre to take pictures but there were four foreign types
hogging it so we had an ice cream instead. On the way back I got
35mph out of the Merlin but I knew it could have been more if
not for the ‘T’ junction! On to the Bungalows at Threlkeld
with the final climb of the day.
Puncture repaired it was relaxation time with stunning views of
the hills one side and Blencathra behind. A real Cumbrian couple
run this place and it was good to see they haven’t changed
much since 1990, very down to earth and to the point! Bear in
mind they only do single night B&B in the week not Fri, Sat
or Sun. The Salutation Inn was the chosen venue for grub ‘n’
ale and the Steak pie was brill as was the pudding. Pool and darts
followed before retiring.
As expected breakfast was smashing so it
was goodbye to the Bungalows and Blencathra and onto Mungrisdale
on the old main road which I never knew about until this ride,
very pleasant, through a few gates through Mungrisdale and onto
Greystoke. We were a bit early for a cuppa at the bikers café
although self service was offered but we pressed on to Penrith
for the last cashpoint, great baguettes from Megabytes (near a
bandstand I think).
Up Fell lane (groan) to beacon edge and more stunning views looking
back to where we came from. On to Langwathby and a quick break
at the play area where Simon proceeded to lie down on a spinning
roundabout whilst on the phone! Through Little Salkeld up another
short sharp climb then the first views appeared of the Pennines
and thoughts of………Hartside.
We noted a steadily increasing collection of roadkill as we progressed
including an upside down Badger with no fur and blackend skin,
mmmmm nice! Hares, Rabbits and Birds all seemed without roadsense.
At Renwick we could see the steepness of the Hartside road in
the distance and we were passed by some younger chaps whilst checking
the map. After a couple of corners we started the climb and could
see the other group up ahead with a young lad lagging behind.
I rode alongside chatting and it was his mate that slipped into
the sea at Whitehaven.
To our astonishment the youngsters stopped and we trundled past
determined to beat them up to the top. What a climb, 3 or 4 miles
and of course the sun became quite strong, my sports glasses were
dripping with sweat and I used the obscured vision to avoid looking
at the hill. When I got to the ‘T’ junction partway
up I was only doing 4 mph and as I turned the gradient made me
go back down the slope again losing rhythm so I stopped until
Simon caught up then plodded up to the Café desperate for
a mug of tea, I can’t describe the motivation thinking of
that tea !
We were both dead chuffed to have
made it, we enjoyed more great views and another cuppa plus Megabyte
Baguettes! There were a fair few Bikers there, one of them had
a load of luggage and a guitar strapped to the back and he said
he had a gig in Keswick, apparently the drummer goes by van!
The descent was great and I clocked 39.1 mph before having to
turn for Leadgate.(Yeehaa !) A couple of short climbs then a lovely
descent with stunning views into Garrigill which was really good.
Parked the bikes at the rear of the post office then began relaxing
and winding down ready for the evening.
If you can’t make decisions in life it doesn’t matter
here as there are signs and notes everywhere including numbered
towels so you can’t go wrong. We were told the George and
Dragon wasn’t very good so we were contemplating a trip
to Alston but we decided to risk it and actually it was fine.
Whilst waiting for food two Geordie C2C lads came in late after
mechanical problems, turned out they were also staying at the
PO.
A couple of pints, some chat and some pool later we retired to
the B&B only to be chased out of the pub because we hadn’t
paid! Must have missed the plasticized sign to remind us!
On the way downstairs I just knew something would start me off
and sure enough Simon showed me the clear Tupperware container
of cornflakes which had a label on it saying, wait for it ………
’Kelloggs Cornflakes’, at this point I lost it for
a couple of minutes !
Breakfast was good and off we went blissfully unaware of the monster
round the corner. One blog said something about laughing at the
gradient, more like barfing at the gradient I’d say. Bear
in mind we had just had breakfast then immediately we tackle a
very steep hill, steeper than Hartside. I was croaking like a
frog and nearly let go of me bacon ‘n’ eggs, Simon
looked like death and muttered that he could taste blood after
the initial very, very steep bit had changed to just a very steep
bit. It was one of those hills that you think has eased only to
go round a bend or what looks like a crest and it carries on.
We even saw what looked like puke on the road from some other
poor fool.
Anyway we made it and began another fun descent into Nenthead.
Simon was visibly drawn to the ‘Over 60’s rest room’
behind the Miners arms, but we had to go on. I elected to try
the off road route to black hill whilst Simon did the road route.
It was a waste of time because I just couldn’t get grip
on the gravel uphill bit. We met at the top looking towards Hartley
moor with the Grouse shooters and beaters in the distance.
Another great decent including hairpins and bridges then a break
at Killhope Law for a swift Brandy to celebrate ‘almost’
the last climb of the day. Stunning views were to be had again.
Another drop along Paxhill which gets even steeper just as you
get near the end! On through to Allenheads and the Hemmel café
for yet more tea and a snack.
The two Geordies caught up with us here but we set off a little
earlier and they didn’t pass us, they were doing a two day
run (show offs).
On to the final climb of the day in the hot sun again, before
a smooth scenic downhill towards Rookhope, with a short stop at
Lintzgarth Arch before an early finish at the Rookhope Inn, the
arch is what is left of a huge horizontal flue from a lead works
designed to take poisonous fumes away from the river and the people.
After check in we went for a walk up the off road section of the
hill which was to be the final days main challenge next morning,
Simon went to the ruin at the top while I just chilled watching
the Grouse and sheep. Two C2C’ers came past so I observed
the traction and rate of climb to try and guess how I would get
on with it. That evening was the England v Russia game so we arranged
for food after the game, then finished with pints and pool for
a change. The lamb shank was smashing and the puddings were great.
I was kept awake by some repetative 90’s dance music and
by midges until gone midnight.
Final day! Breccy and tea then pay the bill before bike checks.
Loads of midges whilst attaching my bag. A group of about 6 people
could just be seen heading up the hill so we were keen not to
be left behind. I got part way up the loose gravel hill before
having to push up to the gate then we started riding towards the
group who were all pushing (whimps).
I kept to the smooth-ish grass at the side of the rough path then
crossed to the other side as I passed the group, I didn’t
want to look behind to see Simons progress as I may have stalled
and there was no way I could fail, now I had passed them lot!
It was hard work especially near the top because it got a little
steeper and loose stones would occasionally get under both tyres
at once almost stopping the momentum.
I reached the ruin where the path levels and walked back to see
how many had followed but only Simon had tried it, shame on them!
We started on the descent and being an off road nutter I pushed
quite hard to enjoy the terrain, there were a number of slightly
technical area’s with dips, hollows and crevasses. Simon
lost the contents of his handlebar bag so lost some time picking
it all up and a helpful chap found a pair of his glasses and returned
them.
We met at the sign for the Parkhead Café which is on a
little railway truck then headed for a cuppa at the café.
Here we met a nice chap who later was to help us when he caught
us up. There was some reference to the record for the Crawleyside
road climb for 2007 which was 13 mins! Whilst in there a group
went past and our competitive spirit urged us to be after them
so off we went down the Waskerly way in hot pursuit.
We chose the stealth method so slowly gained on them then waited
to pounce at one of the dips followed by a short rise, after a
couple of these we overtook them and continued at a slightly faster
pace to get some distance. I know this is all childish but, hey
its fun!
We went over the Hownsgill viaduct then soon came to the Smelt
Wagon crossroad (Lydgetts junction). Stopped for photo’s
and to refix loose panniers then straight on as the sign said.
After a couple of miles we came to an island at Consett where
the signs seemed odd. This is where the guy from the Parkhead
café caught up with us (what a star), he had seen us at
the wagon crossroads and came to tell us the sign had been turned
round by some tosspot so we had gone wrong.
Another guy told us to bear left and go through a park and we
would get back to the route. At this point there were two other
guys who set off from the Rookhope Inn roughly the same time as
us. We kept with them and I just knew Simon would be keen to get
by them so with my motocross experience I waited for a mistake!
It was about 5 miles later when there were a few parts of the
trail that dipped down to a barrier chicane, across a road then
up the other side through another barrier, it was about the third
one when the chap in front of me didn’t change down his
gears so he was in top on his rear cluster, not a good idea on
a 1 in 7ish slope especially with us two blinkered madmen in pursuit!
He stalled of course and that was it, we were off! The leading
guy knew what we were up to and made some feeble reference to
some ‘really good café a bit further on’ But
we had the bit between our snarling teeth, we knew it was bullshit
and put on an extra 8mph for about 3 or 4 miles, we overtook another
younger group then there was a left turn off the old railway track
at Rowlands Gill after yet another viaduct, one of these looked
almost identical to Hownsgill and for a moment I panicked thinking
we had gone in a circle.
We slowed slightly because the last group we passed had gone a
different way then passing into less scenic area’s we went
under the A1 so this signalled the start of suburbia. We knew
we were near the Tyne when we saw the next river which is the
Derwent then all of a sudden the Tyne is in front. Two chaps had
just gone the wrong way but I spotted the sign through the low
branches and turned left towards the path over the bridge to Hadrians
way which put us on the right side of the Tyne.
At some point near Elswick we missed the road crossing and realising
the signs had ended we turned round and got back on track between
a couple of walls back down to the proper route. Suddenly my phone
went and with a swift stop, unzip manoeuvre I Answered Simons
wife’s call, she was at the Millennium bridge with their
eldest son. We negotiated the Sunday market on the Riverside path
then arrived at the bridge which was just lifting up.
It took half an hour before we met them then we went for a cuppa
at the most posh place in history compared with the places we
had been but the tea wasn’t as good. Approximate timings
were calculated then we set off for the last bit having arranged
to meet at approximately 14:30 at Tynemouth. We plodded on overtaking
another group, in and out of industrial areas, parks and backstreets,
passed a chap who welcomed Simon to Newcastle then we could sense
the final section and smell the fish!
The last sign directing us from the riverside path was just that,
‘the last sign’. We blasted up the last slope, dispensing
with the last two wheeler, past the car park towards the castle
then……………………where
the hell is the finish? After circling a couple of times and asking
pedestrians, it appeared the beach for the boat club was the finish
so down we went and I set the camera’s to timed shutter
propped up on a chunk of wood to capture the pair of us at the
end of what was a great adventure and achievement. Time was about
13:50.
The car park had a strategically placed burger/chip van so we
indulged with tea as well followed by ice cream whilst taking
in our success. We had no rain, only had one puncture, only went
slightly wrong a couple of times, drank gallons of tea, a few
pints, met lots of great people, saw many great views, had a great
laugh and made those hills !!
Many
thanks to Simon for all the preparation and for being a great
travel companion and to Helen for the transport back.
To all the doubter’s………. told you we’d
make it! So get off your arses and give it a try!
Paul (AKA Basil)
Footnotes from Simon:-
Best moments
- Swigging brandy on Black Hill and putting Texas on the ipod
- The climb out of Allenheads (I don't know why but I just felt
I'd had a joint at the Hemmel Cafe!)
- The off-road down to Bassenthwaite
- Hartside cafe
What will I remember best
- Being with my mate Baz
Bad memories
- Not one frigging moment, it was all amazing
Hardest bit
- Garrigill
Tips for C2Cers
- 3 days, stopping at Greystoke (or Penrith) and Rookhope
-Think carefully at Rookhope about whether you want Crawleyside
or the off-road. The jaunt up to the ruin was useful in that respect
- Prepare physically and mentally. It’s a bit corny but
I knew as I approached Hartside that I wasn't going to get off
no matter how steep it was and once I'd done that I knew nothing
would beat me
Tips for Sustrans
- Better signs in Workington
- C2C sign not clear in Whitehaven and not at Newcastle at all.
People were disappointed
- Repair that sign in Consett
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