Day 3 (Castleside to Tynemouth)
Another good nights sleep and with a wholesome breakfast on board, we journeyed
out at 9.00am on the final leg to Tynemouth. Early drizzle turned to rain but
the track allows for swift travel and we hit Lydgetts Junction in no time at
all leaving the wet weather behind us. The signage here is poor being none
existent, destroyed or defaced, but we veered off to the left and worked our
way across the Derwent Walk losing our way but eventually finding the trail
north of Shotley Bridge.
Mike and Ang Walker (otherwise known as the Shelton
Bikers) are two cyclists from Derbyshire who have ridden the C2C
lots of times, either as a single crossing, there and back or just
sections of the route. They do it because they enjoy it and because,
as is the case with the C2C, once is never enough! Here they offer
their journal of their 2003 c2c adventure - read and enjoy! Whitehaven to Tynemouth The Shelton Bikers Bank Holiday tour of duty began at 4.00am on Saturday 23rd August leaving Derby and hitting Whitehaven just before 9.00am. This year's trip began at Parton (just down the coast from Whitehaven) where we took advantage of secure parking offered by Jim Hewitson a C2C Ranger for the 3-day fee of £6 including a complimentary cup of coffee to see you on your way. Down on the Quayside our fellow Bikers arrived all shapes and sizes, and that was just the cycles! Photo call was order of the day with groups swapping and changing to ensure we all got on the photographs. The first challenge of the day for some was negotiating the Slipway with the less knowledgeable venturing below the tide line to do the customary wheel dip and going A over T in their attempts to get back up the slope! Day
One (Whitehaven to Penrith) -
Our 2003 adventure begins ………… First detour and a must visit to Billy Wilson's Butchers in the high street at Cleator Moor for the best pies in the area and at £1.35 for two gi-normous offerings this must be the best value for money on the trip. On our way back to the Railway Path we came across several groups of riders who appeared confused by the map/book instructions taking them off route to the village, but we soon sorted the problem and sallied forth to Rowrah with them. Friends where soon made and you will find that during the course of the crossing whoever you start with you invariably meet at various points along the way sharing the adventure, pain, pleasure and all that the C2C throws at you. Lamplugh and the spectacular Loweswater came and went, although I must mention that we met a mad professor from Beccles who took time out from the ride with his family to take a dip in the lake! (If you are reading this you may not have been a professor, but you must have been mad! - A really nice family camping their way through from C2C, no offence meant). Scales offered the first real hill challenge of the day to take a group of us to the top of Winlatter Pass, gears grinding, panniers rocking and sweat pouring out of our bodies - sounds familiar? Ang and myself chose the road route to Keswick as opposed to the more technical forest route, which on the wrong sort of day can signal the end of the trip for the less capable rider! Nonetheless we enjoyed a trouble free and exhilarating descent on road and short-circuited to Keswick by the designated cycle path by the side of the A66. Lunch at The Lakeland Pedlar within the Bell Close car park and an opportunity to buy some quality kit or components for yourself or bike from the showroom above the café, if your bike is knackered buy a new one I nearly bought two and if the owner is reading this he lost a grand plus sale on the day! (I will be back though). Onwards to Threlkeld on the Keswick Railway Path starting behind the Swimming Pool and the choice is yours venture off road (for the more experienced with ATB machines) along the Old Coach Road bringing with it challenges, exhilarating views and adventure or take the less strenuous route, like ourselves on this occasion, along the A66 via Mungridsdale picking Blackberries (providing they are in season) the size of pickled onions from the roadside! Onwards and upwards to Greystoke and if you feel like a swim in a heated pool find the village caretaker and relax your bones in the village 'Pond' before the final 6 miles to Penrith. The Boot & Shoe Pub in the village is worth a visit for the ale & good food and if you have had enough for the day there is plentiful B&B to be found in the village unless the Bank Holiday weekenders have taken it, although most riders prefer to hit Penrith on day one. Easy riding to Penrith and the route through the College grounds and along the Bridleway is well worth taking; the country's stock of horses must be stabled down here! Day one draws to a close and our arrival at the Albany Guest House on Portland Place in Penrith is a pleasure clean, tidy and well decorated and that’s just the Land Lady - Seriously quality hospitality, accommodation, food and real value for money with secure parking for the bike. Travelling Tip: Pre book your accommodation in Penrith, particularly during the high season and Bank Holiday Weekends, the town becomes oversubscribed by overnighters on the route and a night in the railway station waiting room is not recommended! We then took an evening stroll around Penrith meeting the locals and eyeballing fellow C2Cers before hitting the sack and dreaming of day 2. Day 2 (Penrith to Castleside) Easy riding to Hartside through Renwick with the first challenge of the day looming when a group of Geordie Lads joined the club – Off Road or Tarmac, I took the easy option with Ang & Vic and stimulated a debate amongst the lads of the virtues of Newcastle and Sunderland Football Clubs – They subsequently told me they did the ‘Off Road’ section! Charging up the tarmac I hesitated just before the summit – Road or Off Road to the café – I decided road, but my ego turned the bike onto the Bridleway oophs. Ego and strawberries bruised I completed this section on foot to the café. Travel Tip: Do not attempt this final bit on a Road Bike or an ATB with slicks, semis, or 50 plus PSI in the tyres the loose surface caused by rain drainage is a ‘Trip Stopper’ if you come off! – I should have known better, but the child came out in me! The Shelton Bikers (All three of us now) took a break at the Café and enjoyed the view with fellow cyclists and plagues of Motor Bikers. Familiar faces appeared and we shared the moment recounting the thrills and spills of the journey so far. Back on our machines we coasted down to Garrigill where we came across the ‘Thrifty Van’ mob on the Village Green who tried to convince us they where committed to the tarmac! (Did anyone else see a white van full of bodies & bikes?). Someone had to make a move so we took to the road and started what I consider to be one of the toughest climbs on the C2C, but before hitting the hill I noticed two youngsters battling a tube change so I intervened and did the change for them avoiding the hill climb for 15 minutes. What seems like a lifetime of climbing, even to experienced campaigners like Ang and myself, we reached the summit and drifted down hill to Nenthead. The local pub (with bunk house attached) acts like a magnet with new friends made as they arrive via Garrigill or Alston, but sadly we had to say goodbye to our new found member Vic who had booked refuge at the Cherry Tree B&B for the night – then we where two again! Blackhill offers a challenge to anyone and during a moments relapse (or was it exhaustion) three young ladies sprinted past the Shelton Bikers (or it seemed that way) – The gaunlet was laid down and the challenge taken up and credit to one of the trio she kept me at bay until we reached the top. Joining a group at the top
I was amazed at a challenge they had decided upon they where
returning to Nenthead by the downhill ‘Off
Road’ section just for the experience and returning to a colleague
back at the top, who was security watching their bike baggage,
by the road they had just climbed! – Goodbye and off we went to
Allenheads. Up and over to Rookhope with a cracking decent to the Village centre and an option of ‘Incline’ or ‘Road’ Our preference is ‘Off Road’ and although the incline is closed during the Grouse Shooting Season it is worth noting this is only on shooting days; therefore check before you arrive there. Up we went, not without difficulty in some areas due to water erosion, but almost near the summit the surface deteriorated so badly we did a ‘lift and walk’ to the top – what a view and what superb scenery with heather clad moor land and quiet desolation all around you – a must do section! Arriving at Parkhead we took timeout with Lorraine & Terry at the caravan cafe and sampled Toasties (what a treat – Ang recommends them), a Bacon Bap and a regionally famous scone washed down with a pot of tea all for £4 – What value for money this trip is! Being some 6 miles from our B&B at Bee Farm Cottage (just off the track) and with the night drawing in we did our Tour De whatever bit and cracked a pace down Waskerley Way to our overnight accommodation (Red House on the map) – Do people not ride after six o’clock up here? Our B&B was top draw and well worth the premium price, you do get what you pay for, and David and his wife are very hospitable hosts. The B&B was full of Aussies searching for their ancestors so I suggested they paid a visit to the Durham nick and short-circuited their search. Travel Tip: To avoid our ‘Cock Up’ travelling through to Consett and picking up the Rowland Gill signs is a much better option. The Derwent Walk allows for good speed on an excellent surface and since our last trip on this section a deviation on an all weather surface has been introduced which takes you quickly to Scott’s Bridge over the Tyne to the North side. Following a little road work (not the best part of the route) the paved river path is reached which on this occasion was littered with Anglers casting into the river and almost taking unsuspecting riders off their bikes as fish bait with their back swings! Newcastle beckoned and riders where scattered on both sides of the Tyne heading for the ‘Blinking Bridge’ crossing – some piece of engineering this is, but why do pedestrians in Stiletto heels (that’s just the men!) cross on the grid surface rather than the tarmac causing havoc by turning their ankles and disrupting the cycle flow! We crossed to the South side and took the route to the pedestrian Tyne Tunnel battling the headwind, glass, fly tipping, dog crap and anything else this part of the route threw at us – Where have all the cyclists gone we ask ourselves? The tunnel is an experience worth waiting for with wooden floored escalators, similar to those in the 60’s department stores, taking you first down, and following a quick sprint on the tunnel floor, back to the surface on the North side. On reaching the surface on the North side you feel the ride is coming to an end, and following what seems a lifetime of meandering around Tynemouth passing more ‘Chippies’ than ‘Takeaways’ in Chinatown the ride nears its end. The end is neigh, on the Quay front at the far end of the promenade, the final photograph is taken, and the ride is done. Our transport back to Whitehaven was on time and Ted Gilmore (Tyne Valley Holidays) quickly stowed our bike and kit away on his chariot as I shed a tear having realised the trio of young lasses who gave me grief on Blackhill got there before us! (Only Joking Ladies – Well Done!) Another trip completed and the hunger to return next year is still there, but credit to all the riders for having a go. Thanks for the company of so many of you who not only made the trip enjoyable but contributed to the compiling of this journal by being there, but that is what makes the C2C the best trip across England you can take! Mike & Ang Walker – The Shelton Bikers (All Two Of Us – Sorry Vic You Opted Out Of The Club At Nenthead – Only Joking)
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