Whitehaven to Sunderland

“Ho What A Circus, Ho What A Show!”

Detailed below is a chronicle of events, including useful travel tips, covering the Shelton Bikers Annual Bank Holiday Quest including their good, very good, and excellent adventures with fellow travellers, making new friends and sharing an experience of a lifetime for many of them.

The Shelton Bikers annual tour of duty began at 4.00am on Saturday 28th August leaving Derby and hitting Whitehaven just after 8.00am.

This year's trip once again began at Parton (just down the coast from Whitehaven) where we took advantage of secure parking offered by Jim Hewitson (a C2C Ranger) for a competitive 2-night fee, including a complimentary cup of coffee to see you on your way.
(NB. Jim has recently increased his parking area to facilitate more of us, peace of mind and financial support for the local area – not a bad start to the ride before a pedal is turned!)

Cycling the short distance on a coastal path from Parton down to the Quayside our fellow Bikers have already arrived for a 9.00am start (hundreds of us this year!) the usual variety of shapes and sizes, and that was just their riding machines! Customary Photo calls where order of the day with groups swapping and changing to ensure we all got on the photographs, and in my case I did a ‘Michael Winner’ on someone’s video – “Hello Mum its me” or something like that!

The first hiccup of the day was a puncture for one of the “Likely Lads” from the North East who having negotiated the Slipway without injury to do the customary wheel dip found himself with a puncture before he had turned a serious wheel. Something told me the Shelton Bikers had not seen the last of these boys! (Read on the Circus is about to begin!).

Day One - Whitehaven to Penrith Our 2004 adventure begins
Bikers ready, pedals ready and all that the SB’s detour to the Whitehaven Street Market to change the course of the local economy by buying four bananas! Back on route and a gentle meander around Whitehaven and the local Estate roads, past the pigeon lofts and along the Railway Path. Last year we where avoiding Dogs, Owners and their mess, but this time round the path was strewn with glass so ‘lift and walk’ was order of the day to avoid what would have been a ‘punctured’ stop start to this years trip. Travel Tip : For those less prepared ‘lift & walk’ over glass and/or hawthorn hedge cuttings is 1st prize puncture repairing within the first few miles will give your ego and street cred an early knock, spare inner tubes are mandatory!

Off to Cleator Moor and the first disappointment of the trip someone has eaten all the pies! Billy Wilson's Butchers in the high street at Cleator Moor have the best VFM pies in the area, but on this trip they had all gone at 10.00am, perhaps I had better stop writing about them and keep the secret safe?

Back on route and a trouble free journey to Rowrah, although I did notice the North East ‘Likely Lads’ miss the route right turn and follow the line of the Railway track bed. They DID eventually emerge on route having to negotiate a locked five bar gate, which is not too difficult unless you pack your bike panniers with more kit than a Yukon gold prospector! (more of that later).

First climb of the day past the school at Kirkland and the SB’s are called into action, one of the ‘Likely Lads’ is gear crashing and needs assistance (the one who had the puncture on the quayside at Whitehaven, not his day or what). A quick assessment soon diagnosed that a frame bag, in addition to the panniers, was fouling the front derailleur (that took some spelling!). A quick fix readjustment and the North East crew where on their way never to be seen again – Did you finish or where you avoiding the G&T for Ang and the pint I negotiated for the repair?

Travel Tip: Take care with panniers and bag accessories over filling and poor fitting kit is a recipe for disaster, trial in the weeks before you ride the C2C and check them regularly when on route.

Lamplugh and the spectacular Loweswater came and went and with Scales ahead of us presenting the first real hill challenge of the day we had some sustenance (grub to the less educated) at Lorton. Nobody was on the climb so Ang and myself moseyed up to find a London Trio Boys Club at the top taking on fluids, little where we to realise at this point that we had found our excellent riding companions for the remainder of the journey.

Up and over when one of the ‘Cockneys’ decided the SB’s where easy meat (Sorry Elliot I know you are a vegetarian) choosing to attempt to scale the rise to the Whinlatter Pass Road in too higher gear. Crunch, grind, crack and wallop with both bike and rider on the tarmac and the chain split.
Do you have a chain splitter I asked? One look said it all and 10 minutes later courtesy of the SB’s bike and rider where mobile and the three London Amigos where on the road again. (More G&T’s for Ang and pints galore for me for this one – Hic, Hic!) –

Travel Tip: Never leave home without one – Yes, you’ve got it a ‘Chain Splitter’

Once again, we took the easy option road route to Keswick as opposed to the more technical forest route, which on the wrong sort of day can signal the end of the trip for the less capable rider! Nonetheless we enjoyed a trouble free and exhilarating descent on road and short-circuited to Keswick by the designated cycle path by the side of the A66.

We paid our annual visit and had lunch at The Lakeland Pedlar within the Bell Close car park and the opportunity to buy some quality kit or components for yourself or bike from the showroom above the café presents itself – If nothing else buy a ‘Chain Splitter’ if you are not carrying one.

Onwards to Threlkeld on the Keswick Railway Path starting behind the Swimming Pool, or so I thought! The three London Amigos descended on us whilst I was adjusting Angs rucksack and with Elliot (The Chain Man) and Martin engaging us in conversation David was behind me with upturned bike discussing the engineering principles of the rear derailleur, you guessed it he needed ‘Phone a Friend’. Another 10 minutes of repairs and further promises of booze filled reunion on Sunday night in Rookhope saw them on their way.

The choice is now yours venture off road (for the more experienced with ATB machines) along the Old Coach Road bringing with it challenges, exhilarating views and adventure, or take the less strenuous route, like ourselves once again on this occasion, along the A66 via Mungrisdale picking Blackberries (providing they are in season) the size of pickled onions from the roadside! (Good job we did – Ask David!).

Travel Tip: Always self prepare or seek professional bike maintenance services before hitting the route – Its no fun on the ‘Coach Road’ with knackered gears or ill trimmed brakes!

Onwards and upwards to Greystoke or so I thought again, but rounding a corner on the Mungrisdale road a heap of metal and bones lay before me! David, one of the three London Amigos found out the hard way that London Traffic skills and the demand for compensation have no meaning in those there hills when faced with a ‘Local’ on the way to market!

The Angel of the Midlands (Yes we do have one – That’s Ang) dressed his wounds from her comprehensive medical kit and I rebuilt his bike, front wheel bearings, front & rear brakes etc – the only serviceable part was the rear derailleur I had repaired earlier!

Easy riding to Penrith, with David looking like an extra from Casualty in tow, to meet Elliot & Martin in the Market Square and we then sent the three of them packing to Eden Hall for the night.

Day one now draws to a close and our arrival at the Albany Guest House on Portland Place in Penrith is a pleasure, new hosts this year (Sue & Archie), clean, tidy and well appointed and that’s just the Land Lord! - Seriously quality hospitality, accommodation, food and real value for money with secure parking for the bike.

Travel Tip: Pre book your accommodation in Penrith, particularly during the high season and Bank Holiday Weekends, the town becomes oversubscribed by overnighters on the route and a night sitting in McDonalds with teenagers is not recommended!

We then took to the streets around Penrith trying to avoid anyone seeking help from the Samaritans (we had done our bit for the day), but we got our just rewards from the Little Chippy in the Market Square – Best Chip Butty in the North, if you don’t believe me try one!

With Day Two beckoning and hidden adventure awaiting we hit the sack!

Day Two - Penrith to Rookhope
An early start to avoid an incoming weather front (Ang reckons it was to avoid getting my hands greased up with the early morning bike repairs on fellow guests machines – As if!) and with an excellent breakfast in our bunkers The Shelton Bikers hit the road to Langwathby.

Easy riding to Hartside through Renwick and with the weather front hitting the late risers (told you) we took the tarmac all the way to the summit in the sunshine.

Travel Tip: Do not attempt the final ‘Off Road’ bit on a Road Bike or an ATB with slicks, semis, or 50 plus PSI in the tyres the loose surface caused by rain drainage is a ‘Trip Stopper’ if you come off!

The Shelton Bikers took a break at the Café and enjoyed the warmth of the building with fellow cyclists and plagues of Motor Bikers, sunny it may have been but far to chilly to sit outside. Familiar faces appeared in the form of the three London Amigos and we shared the moment recounting the thrills and spills of the journey so far over tea and buns.

David (the Casualty extra) had regained his riding confidence, but to avoid the stress of the Garrigill climb I suggested he joined the SB’s as an honorary member taking the scenic detour through Alston, he readily agreed without argument!

Back on our machines, we despatched Elliot and Martin down to Garrigill with an arrangement to meet in Nenthead at the ‘Miners Arms’, whilst we coasted downhill to Alston and over to Nenthead.

Travel Tip: Whilst the Crusaders amongst us would never consider the alternative to Garrigill to those of less capability the route through Alston to Nenthead is not only easier on the limbs but offers an attractive scenic alternative to the cut and thrust, blood and guts climb from Garrigill to Nenthead (On or Off Road!)

The local pub (with bunk house attached – must be worth an overnight sometime for the experience!) acts like a magnet with new friends made as they arrive via Garrigill or Alston. With the group re-united the ‘Landaners’ became welcome members of The Shelton Bikers for the rest of the trip.

Blackhill is challenging for anyone, but geared right with a strong will everyone is capable taking the summit. Snaked out today’s procession took the hill old & young, small & large – Road Bikes or ATB’s and with panniers & rucksacks creaking no doubt Everest looks the same, but not on a bike!

More climbing but well within our capabilities we arrived at Allenheads to find the Hemmel Café had re opened so without a second thought we patronised the establishment. Whilst the pub offers good grub and beer we should spare a thought for the Café proprietors en route whose sole purpose is to provide a service to visitors (us), walkers or bikers – They have to live in winter as well so spend some money with them!

Last challenge for the day with an up and over to Rookhope with a cracking descent to the Village centre. The ‘Londoners’ where taking refuge at the Pub for the night whilst Ang & myself became religious and bunked at the Vicarage with hosts Pauline & Colin plus seven other cyclists and a field full of campers, but not in the same bed!

Cracking night at the Rookhope Inn with good food & beer courtesy of the ‘Cockneys’ (sincere thanks guys) and with a chance to meet fellow travellers who surf Dik's site the night was complete, or was it? No repairs to do, but the Band struck up just as we where off to bed! Who wants a barbers shop quartet and a bouncy castle when your bums been in the seat for two days and 100 miles, well may be we do!

On the way home to the Vicarage (on foot) I thought the free beer had worked miracles with my eye sight over the wall in a ‘locals’ garden I saw cabbages as big as beach balls, onions the size of footballs and leeks like baseball bats!

Day Three – Rookhope To Sunderland
At breakfast, I recounted my amazing vegetable story to Pauline who explained that the ‘local’ was a prize vegetable grower; I should have listened to Ang the night before when she said half a pint and a sniff of the bar maids apron and you are out of it!

Breakfast round the table was quiet until one of the group left the table suddenly, obviously he had had my share of the ale the previous night, but before I could comment his so called mates ravaged his breakfast plate – some mates you are! (Only Joking).

Good food and hospitality at the right price is what you are looking for and you will not be disappointed with Pauline and Colin at the Vicarage.

Breakfast over we paid up and sallied forth to the Inn hoping the ‘Cockneys’ where aware that there are two nine thirties in the day and one of them is before 12 noon, you guessed it right!

Today’s option: ‘Incline’ or ‘Road’ our preference is ‘Off Road’ so the ‘Londoners’ had no option ! Although the incline is closed during the Grouse Shooting Season it is worth noting this is only on Shooting Days; therefore check before you arrive there.

Up we went, not without difficulty in some areas due to water erosion (ask Elliot), but we made it to the summit with Ang up without a dab (so there boys!) – what a view and what superb scenery with heather clad moor land and quiet desolation all around you – a must do section! Must mention Martin here who was consistency itself throughout the ride, never a hero on the Incline due to his bike type and tyre profiles but Michael Schumacher eat your heart out – Off the grid and over the moor to Parkhead in record time, Or could it have been the curry he had the night before?

Arriving at Parkhead we took timeout with Lorraine & Terry at their new house and cafe a real treat and that was just Pauline in her mini skirt! Only joking guys credit to you both for restoring and building what is a beautiful place and haven for the C2Cers. We look forward to staying with you next year (if we can get in) and I can convince Ang what we will be missing by giving it a miss.

Fluids on board we hit Waskerley Way with Martin still in flying mode and Elliot in his wake we agreed to meet at Lydgetts Junction. Fast track riding took us through to Lydgett and on to Consett in double quick time, with both speed and lack of scenery being something of an anticlimax on this part of the route. None the less, the signage through Consett is much improved and we nailed Anfield Plain in double quick time, stopping at the newly built Co-oP (adjacent to the track) to grab a sarnie & fluids and have a decent comfort break.

Travel Tip: Worth noting this refuge on the Sunderland route, particularly if the weather is bad or your supplies of anything are low – major national, open daily, one stop shop.

Onwards and onwards (no hills on this bit) Martin & Elliot blazed the trail with the old timers close on their heels with an agreed meet at the Stadium of Light (Are Bank Holidays the only time Sunderland get a full house these days, and that’s well before kick off – Only joking lads!)

Stanley & Signs for the Beamish Museum came and went, travellers where acknowledge coming in the opposite direction, but the speed we all travel at and the concentration needed only allows for a nod, smile and a wheel wobble to avoid going arse over tit into the brambles! (Nutters the lot of us)

The track is long and quick with Motorway A Roads under passed, the Angel of North to the left (the Angel of the Midlands in front of me) a huge monument on the hill to the right and before long the suburbs of Sunderland are reached.

The anti climax sets in meandering around the River Wear banks to arrive at the home of the ‘Black Cats’. The end is nigh, on the Quay front at the far end of the promenade, with the Group assembled, the final photograph is taken, and the ride is done.

But what a surprise last years honorary member Vic, with his wife Ann, are waiting for us with Champagne – Thanks for the thought and hoping we can ride it together next year.

Just when I thought I could put my tool kit away Vic’s young Grandson looked at me with forlorn eyes, Grandad says you are an ace mechanic and duly thrust his mini ATB at me for a rear derailleur repair! (How I hate that word, not only can I not spell it I hate repairing them!) – Job done and a future C2Cer on the road again courtesy of The Shelton Bikers.

Time for this years group to break up and the jersey awards are as follows:
Elliot takes the King of the Contours
Martin takes the King of Consistency
David takes King of Casualty

On a serious note guys it was a pleasure riding with you, Ang and myself do the trip not only to conquer the route year in and year out, but to enjoy the experience and share our skills and knowledge with people like yourselves – We had to adopt someone, this year it was you – thanks for being there.

Our transport back to Whitehaven was on time and Tyne Valley Holidays (David this year) quickly stowed our bikes and kit away on his chariot and whipped us back in double quick time.

Another trip completed and the hunger to return next year is still there, but credit to all the riders for having a go. Thanks for the company of so many of you who not only made the trip enjoyable but contributed to the compiling of this journal by being there, but that is what makes the C2C the best trip across England you can take!

Mike & Ang Walker – The Shelton Bikers : All Two Of Us Again – Of Course