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Whitehaven
to Sunderland with the return By Hadrian’s
Wall
"Around The Top Of The World In
7 Days" (Part One)
Detailed below is a chronicle of events covering the Shelton
Bikers 10th anniversary C2C trip with a return ride to Whitehaven
by the Hadrian’s Wall Route (NCN72).
The Shelton Bikers anniversary epic trip began at 3.00am on Saturday
27th August leaving Derby just before 4.00am and hitting Penrith
just after 7.30am for
breakfast at McDonalds (who else is open at this time of day, but it was adequate,
fat free and cost less than a fiver for the both of us – downside being the
polystyrene plates they serve it on - Oohps forgot free plastic knife & fork!)
Being creatures of habit (well this is our 10th trip) we once again began at
Parton (just down the coast from Whitehaven) where we took advantage of secure
parking offered by Jim Hewitson (a C2C Ranger) for a competitive 6-night fee,
including a complimentary cup of coffee to see us on our way.
(Note: Jim has recently increased his parking area to facilitate more vehicles,
peace of mind us and financial support for the local area)
Cycling the short distance
on a coastal path from Parton down to the Quayside our arrival
for a 9.30am start was
later than previous years but the usual variety of shapes and sizes
where on display, and that was just their bikes! Customary Photo
shoots where taken with groups swapping and changing to ensure
we all got on the photographs and this year no one went “A over
T” on the slippery slipway doing the customary wheel dip in the
Irish Sea – how disappointing for all of us!
Whitehaven to Penrith - 56 Miles - Our 2005 epic adventure begins
Meandering through Whitehavens
streets and cycle paths hordes of fellow cyclists like a plague
of locusts charged
to the front as we passed the pigeon lofts along the Railway Path,
did they know something we didn’t like last years Pie shortage
at Billy Wilson’s at Cleator Moor! The track was glass free this
year and the “Locals” must have invested in “Poop Scoopers” as
the dog crap was also far and few between – What a relief!
Travel Tip: For those less
prepared ‘lift & walk’ over
glass and/or hawthorn hedge cuttings is 1st prize puncture repairing
within the first few miles will give your ego and street cred an
early knock, spare inner tubes are mandatory!
Passing by Cleator Moor our
annual visit to Billy Wilson's Butchers in the high street for
pies was ignored, well
he sold out before we got there last year – hope he’s got plenty
of stock left!
A trouble free journey to Rowrah where we noticed
the wooden fence arch at the end of the off road section had been
moved and resited, well access to the road is now much better,
but how long will the Arch stand before the vandals attack it?
First climb of the day past
the school at Kirkland and the SB’s are having a quiet day having not been called into
action – What’s that all about!
Lamplugh and the spectacular
Loweswater came and went, although we did meet Tricia & Brian
who later became our first associate members of the trip (read
on for the exciting
details), and with Scales ahead of us presenting the first real
hill challenge of the day we had some sustenance (grub to the less
educated) at Lorton with a couple from Manchester; who by coincidence
where bunking at the Rookhope Inn on Sunday night our preferred
choice for this trip as nobody else would have us!
Scales was rider free on the climb so Ang and myself
moseyed up, passed the Billy Minkin tribute, paid our respects
and journeyed on.
At the top of Whinlatter Pass we took the easy option road route to Keswick
as opposed to the more technical forest route, or so I thought, gearing myself
for the first real decent of the day I hit 30mph and to my horror realised
I had no front brake! Tacking left to right across the road to reduce speed
praying (surprising what a crisis does for you!) no vehicles where in pursuit
I manoeuvred into a forest track and leapt from the beast into bracken and
bushes reappearing to be greeted by Ang with a classic line “Your alright
then”.
Putting myself back together
I checked the bike over to find the friction material on the
front pads had disintegrated
and I was braking on bonding resin and metal, or has the case was
I wasn’t!
I walked down the pass (Ang made me put this in,
she rode), yes a Shelton Biker walking, and I rode with caution
on the cycle path to Keswick where just over the bridge adjacent
to the Pencil Museum I called into the bike shop for replacement
pads, the guy on duty although helpful could do with a smile transplant,
yes we are ALL backsides at times (there was more than me in trouble),
but if you are open your business is to supply a service so take
the money and smile doing it!
Back in action we paid our
annual visit and had a delightful lunch at The Lakeland Pedlar
within the Bell Close car
park and the opportunity to buy some quality kit or components
for yourself or bike from the showroom above the café presents
itself – Once again my credit card was itching with the selection
of quality Specialized bikes on offer, one day I will buy one – promise!
Onwards to Threlkeld on the Keswick Railway Path
starting behind the Swimming Pool, plenty of people on route this
year, but failed to spot a single Red Squirrel on this occasion
(no, not on a bike!)
Once again the choice is now yours venture off road
(for the more experienced with ATB machines with brakes that work!)
along the Old Coach Road bringing with it challenges, exhilarating
views and adventure, or take the less strenuous route, like ourselves
once again on this occasion, along the A66 via Mungrisdale with
the Blackberries once again cropping well (providing they are in
season) the size of golf balls and yours for the taking from the
roadside!
Only downside on this part
of the route was the local farmer, or whoever, having trimmed
the roadside hawthorn bushes,
no doubt on purpose, to inconvenience fellow trippers and us. None
the less we took to foot, played a tune of “we shall overcome” on
our bells as we marched through his property, mounted up and sallied
forth puncture free – So there if you are reading this!
On a serious note this was out of order and may have
caused unnecessary delays and hardship to the less observant and
in my opinion he needs a letter from Sustrans / Local Highways
Department reminding him of his responsibilities to road users
during peak riding season.
Travel Tip: Always self prepare
or seek professional bike maintenance services before hitting
the off road route – Its
no fun on the ‘Coach Road’ with knackered gears or ill trimmed
brakes!
Onwards and upwards to Greystoke
and this year we took a shortcut up via the Sportsman’s Arms Pub (Penrith Direct
Route) taking the left turn some 400 metres or so after the pub
and sailed into Greystoke Village – an ideal alternative if you
are behind schedule or the weather is crap!
Easy riding to Penrith through
the Campus and down the Bridleway to the outskirts of the town – Who’s
eaten the horses?
Day one now draws to a close
and our arrival at the Blue Swallow Guest House on Victoria Road
is a pleasure, our hosts
this year where Peter & Cynthia, clean, tidy and well appointed
and that’s just the owners! - Seriously quality hospitality, accommodation,
food and real value for money with secure parking for the bike.
No Vampires here tonight though with enough garlic
in the atmosphere to make sure Dracula stays in his cot!
Travel Tip: Pre book your accommodation in Penrith,
particularly during the high season and Bank Holiday Weekends,
the town becomes oversubscribed by overnighters on the route.
We did our usual tour of the
streets around Penrith dining at the Little Chippy in the Market
Square once again, this
time sharing the town shelter with a Religious Group preaching
the word, interesting but I converted instead to the Best Chip
Butty in the North accompanied by a Mushy Pea fritter - If you
don’t believe me try one!
With Day Two beckoning and hidden adventure waiting
we hit the sack .........
Penrith to Rookhope - 46 Miles - Climbing Day!
Weather was excellent on Saturday
and day two promised much of the same. Up early to avoid the
breakfast rush Peter (our
host) had a bag on, I checked my neck for puncture wounds and found
none, I must have been saved by his late night garlic supper; has
is often the case you meet up with fellow riders who’s path you
crossed the day before - Brian, Tricia and their back up crew Suzanne
and Andy shared an excellent breakfast with us – Thanks Peter & Cynthia.
With fuel onboard The Shelton Bikers hit the road
to Langwathby and we paid our annual visit to the shop just of
the green whilst awaiting the early morning rush of fellow riders
keen to hit Hartside!
Easy riding to Hartside through
Renwick with fellow riders hurtling their way past us to the
big climb. Having had
a quiet first day, other than my own brake repair, I spied a couple
in distress so off I went only to find Brian & Tricia with
a mechanical failure which appeared to be gears, which I trimmed,
but it turned out to be a broken rear spindle – How often do you
get that! Well even Batman & Superman coming up the road behind
us failed to spot it so I did not feel to bad.
Assuming I had cured Brian’s gear problem I set off
for my annual Hartside challenge and if I do say so myself got
up in double quick time (eat your heart out Lance Armstrong) only
to find that Brian’s back up crew had rescued him and his trip
appeared over. None the less Ang took ownership of Tricia and guided
her to the summit for tea, cake and sympathy.
Travel Tip: Please yourself
but I recommended you do not attempt the final ‘Off Road’ bit on a Road Bike or an ATB
with slicks, semis, or 50 plus PSI in the tyres the loose surface
caused by rain drainage is a ‘Trip Stopper’ if you come off!
The weather was changing so
The Shelton Bikers took a break in the Café and enjoyed
the warmth of the building with fellow cyclists and plagues of
Motor Bikers. Familiar faces
appeared and nods of acknowledgement over tea and buns was order
of the day
Decision time for Brian (he
was gutted) so back to Penrith he went, with his back up crew,
for a Spindle or ‘New’ Bike.
Meanwhile the SB’s took ownership of Tricia and to avoid the stress
of the Garrigill climb I suggested she joined the SB’s as an honorary
member taking the scenic detour through Alston.
Back on our machines all three
of us zoomed down to Alston with an arrangement to meet Brian
and the back up crew
in Nenthead at the ‘Miners Arms’ come what may following their
return to Penrith. In the Pub the Vikings had arrived (Ian & David
from York) who we spent a night with at Rookhope last year, this
was their 4th consecutive trip, six to go to catch us! (more of
those boys later). The Pub is a Mecca of amusing people with stories
to tell all gathering for food, drink and a laugh before the climb
up Black Hill. We had an extended wait at the Pub waiting for Brian
during which we arbitrated another Groups kitty dilemma which resulted
in a Black Hill challenge for a bottle of wine – Who won it boys?
Brian returned with a new
bike bought from Halfords so Tricia was signed back over and
the SB’s hit Black Hill.
Travel Trip: Whilst the Crusaders amongst us would
never consider the alternative to Garrigill to those of less capability,
particularly if the weathers bad, the route through Alston to Nenthead
is not only easier on the limbs but offers an attractive scenic
alternative to the cut and thrust, blood and guts climb from Garrigill
to Nenthead (On or Off Road!)
Passing Batman & Superman
on the way up Black Hill I asked them to keep an eye on Ang,
but saving the world must
come first because Ang with a smile as broad as the Tyne came over
the hill boasting she had a worlds first by beating both superheroes
in one go to the top!
With a cloud settling on top
of the hill, and being first up (no modesty again), I took refuge
behind a wall and with
other riders arriving and taking shelter I was soon evicted – So
much for King of the Mountains!
More climbing but well within
our capabilities we arrived at Allenheads and took refreshments
at the Hemmel Café.
Whilst the pub offers good grub and beer we should spare a thought
for the Café proprietors en route whose sole purpose is
to provide a service to visitors (us), walkers or bikers – They
have to live in winter as well so please spend some money with
them!
On leaving the Café a couple we had not met
previously enroute, a young Australian Shelia and England’s answer
to Mick Dundee (Sheep but no Crocs here mate) shared a minute with
us only to motivate me to get to Rookhope first has they had taken
OUR room at the Vicarage and OUR grub at the Pedlar’s - No way
was I giving up my Steak & Kangaroo Pie at Rookhope!
Last challenge for the day, or so I thought, with
an up and over to Rookhope with a cracking decent to the Village
centre. The Inn was lively on our arrival and the toughest climb
of the day was up the stairs to our bedroom!
Cracking night at the Rookhope
Inn with good food, beer and company- Brian, Tricia and their “Roadies” where also
staying the night (can’t get rid of some people – Only joking!).
The Aussies surfaced from
the Vicarage and yes they did have our evening meal (Not joking!).
The evening was spent
with the Vikings (Ian & David from York), we woz robbed in
the Pub Quiz by the Southerners who also won the raffle! (Well
they did give us the orange & strawberry crèmes from
the Roses – some consolation!)
Back to the Vikings who must
have hollow legs, particularly David who threatened legal action
if I went to print – so sue then!
This year’s entertainment was Jim Fallon who donates his fees to
charity so whilst not a cyclist he deserves a mention and he can
sing a bit too.
Rookhope To South Shield via Sunderland 48 Miles
Hearty breakfast courtesy of Tina with a double helping
of Black Pudding for me, nobody else wanted it! We arranged to
ride the incline with the Vikings, so we said our goodbyes to Brian,
Tricia and their Crew and the Manchester couple we met at Lorton
who surfaced for breakfast a little fragile!
Up the Incline with Ian in
tow, panniers and all, with Ang and David bringing up the rear,
from “Pub door to Top” was
our objective and it was a pleasure to share King of the Mountains
with Ian on this occasion. Ang and David followed with a few dabs
a piece at the top in the gully where loose shale due to water
erosion prevents good traction, but they rode it whilst others
pushed and groaned their way up.
Note: Although the incline is closed during the Grouse
Shooting Season it is worth noting this is only on Shooting Days;
therefore check before you arrive there.
From the Incline top we rode across the Moors and
without doubt on an August day with the heather in purple bloom
and the sun striding across the valley (like today) there is no
better view in the country, and we have ridden a few breathtaking
routes in our time.
The Vikings plumbed for the
road route to Parkhead at the end of the defined track which
we had not taken before,
choosing previously to stick to the rail track bed across the moor
to Parkhead, so I enjoyed further views I had not experienced before
from a higher vantage point – thanks boys.
Arriving at Parkhead we took
timeout at the café -
a real haven for the C2Cers. We look forward to staying at the
B & B with Terry and Lorraine sometime (if we can get in) and
I can convince Ang what she will be missing by retiring from C2C
epics.
Fluids on board we hit Waskerley
Way with the Vikings in flying mode, there must have been a rape & pillage
boot sale at Lydgate Junction! Fast track riding took us through
to
Lydgate where the Vikings awaited our arrival; we talked of next
year, said our goodbyes and went our separate ways.
Consett was our destination which was reached in
double quick time, a comfort break was taken at McDonalds (best
toilets on route). The signage through Consett continues to improve
and we nailed Anfield Plain in double quick time, stopping at the
newly built Co-oP (adjacent to the track) to grab some fluids and
have another comfort break.
Travel Tip: Worth noting this
refuge on the Sunderland route, particularly if the weather is
bad or your supplies of anything
are low – major national, open daily, one stop shop.
Onwards and onwards (no hills
on this bit) - Stanley & signs
for the Beamish Museum came and went, travellers where acknowledge
coming in the opposite direction, but the speed we all travel at
and the concentration needed on this section only allows for a
nod, smile and a wheel wobble to avoid going arse over tit into
the brambles! (Nutters the lot of us).
The track is long and quick
with Motorway A Roads under passed, the Angel of North to the
left (the Angel of the
Midlands in front of me, that’s Ang) a huge monument on the hill
to the right and before long the suburbs of Sunderland are reached
on newly resurfaced tracks which make the journey even quicker
than usual.
The anti climax sets in meandering
around the banks of the River Wear, which Ang detests, so I decided
to reroute this
year to arrive at the road beneath the home of the ‘Black Cats’,
or so I thought, needless to say we ended up on the banks of the
Wear on the Board Walk ankle deep in water!
The end is neigh, certainly for me for the failed
shortcut, because we ended up at the Stadium of Light on the top
road as usual!
Meandering to the finish we
where met by our good friend Vic Cohen at Roker Pier (a honorary
member we befriended
on a previous trip) who was putting us up for the night at South
Shields before our return leg by the “Wall”.
We took the coast route to Shields and the area impressed
me, clean, tidy and lively with the Bank Holiday spirit and seaside
smells!
With part one of our 10th anniversary trip finished
and without doubt the excellent weather this time round and the
company of the Vikings added to the memorable experience and to
all the people we met thanks for being there and we hope to see
you again next year or the year after etc., etc.
Mike & Ang – The Shelton Bikers (All Two Of Us
Again – Of Course)
Details of our return journey
from South Shields to Whitehaven can be found on the
Hadrian’s
Cycleway (Route 72) Web Site so why wait - click on
the link now and be entertained, you never know you may be featured.
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