|
The weather forecast looked good everywhere. The days were still long. The
rest of the family were otherwise occupied that weekend. I had been fantasizing
over the Sustrans map and C2C guide for some time and never really expected
to get my act together to go, but on an impulse the weekend of 13 Sept seemed
too good to miss. On Friday I loaded up the panniers and backpack, took the
train from Watford to London, risked cycling to Kings Cross - the most dangerous
1 mile of the whole weekend! - and 3 hours later was in Newcastle. 4 hours
later in Whitehaven, you can't book bikes Newcastle to Carlisle, but the
conductor let 4 on, the others being commuters. Then jumped the one way system
to the Waverley Hotel. Friday night is humming in Whitehaven, the bars full
and rowdy. I checked out the start of the route, and woke for an early breakfast.
Being alone I intended to cycle as far as I could each day, and expected
it to take 3 days.
8:00 start, and onto the railway path, avoiding slugs, collapsed shopping carts,
and dog walkers. The slight incline was tedious and meant constantly cycling.
The undulating road to Loweswater was a relief to swoop up and down the hills
with fabulous views , then round to Lorton and sight of Whinlatter The two
severe uphill were a shock, but the forest track eased and I was at the Visitors Centre without
collapsing. Rewarded myself with a bacon roll, and refilled the Camelbak as
the hot sun was causing me to spray sweat. A local cyclist recommended the
railway route out of Keswick. The forest track down flew by, then relaxing
roads by the lake into a busy market day Keswick. The railway route had none
of the steps marked on my old map, and I was paced by a MTB'er going up Skiddaw
who shared opening the gates.
From Threlkeld to Troutbeck I used the cycle path on the A66 and parallel side
roads rather than the new marked route, then into Greystoke for a lunch stop
at 14:00. This was going much faster than I expected. Penrith was also a market
day, but the signs worked to lead me through, then up a tedious pull out and
on to Langwathby. The option was to stay here the night. But the sky was clear
and bright blue, and at 17:30 I
refueled and drained the last of my water at the bottom of Hartside. Rejecting
the off road short cut, I steadily ground my way up, no faster than walking
but the road gradient was acceptable. A dark black band of cloud appeared over
the summit which I reached at 18:30. No reason to hang around, so donned fleece
and switched on lights to coast down to Alston. First sign was for the YHA,
I'd had enough, so checked in (luckily a large party has just cancelled so
there was plenty of room).
8:45 and the legs creaked. Had I over done it? It seemed so as I crawled up
through cobbled Alston, but the run down into Nenthead restored my spirits,
only to have them dashed by the climb out up to Black Hill in damp cloud. In
and out of cloud down to Allenheads, and a welcome break at the Hemmel Café with
a dozen other cyclists at 11:00. I was recommended not to go to Sunderland
because a) it wasn't as pretty as Tynemouth and b) the railway path had many
obstacles and gates and c) Newcastle was worth seeing instead. The now-expected
pull out of the village was followed by a long run down into Rookhope. The
railway incline was too much and too rough for a laden bike, so I pushed for
half an hour before cresting the top and speeding over
Stanhope Moor on the relatively smooth track. Waskerley railway path was the
reverse of Whitehaven's - the slight downcline allowed a fast pace only hampered
by the gates.
At the junction at Consett the C2C signs for the Derwent Way had clearly been
removed, and Rowlands Gill was signed into Consett. A local explained this
was due to the rerouting through Consett centre to give more trade to the shops
- not much point on a Sunday and one extra mile as well. The Derwent Way path
signs were obvious and soon Sustrans signs were restored. Very few gates, a
smooth surface, empty path, great views over viaducts, and down to the Tyne
by about 15:00.
The Keelmans Way on the south bank was under repair, so I crossed
to the north and found myself on the pavement of a desolate dual
carriageway until it cut
down to the riverside proper and a delightful empty ride into the centre of
Newcastle. Over the new millennium foot/bike bridge to follow the variable
signage to the foot tunnel, (which bikes can cycle through) back to the North
Shields tyneshore to reach Tynemouth at 17:50. The sun was shining, the sea
looked friendly. I was surprised how fit I felt and elated by what I had achieved.
Sunday trains are too random, so I booked into a B&B in the main street,
showered, eat and crashed.
Total miles logged as 145 at an average speed of 10 mph.
Typical tyneside weather - drizzle sea cloud. Aiming for the 09:30 train, I
left at 08:15 and navigated myself to the centre of Newcastle - almost ending
up on the motorway inner ring road - before finding the station just in time
to change into a fresh set of clothes on the platform, consigning the dripping
cycle gear to the bags.
- a camelbak was essential for continuous riding,
not just in heat. I drank 3 to 4 litres each day.
- snacks kept up the energy levels, with no long
lunch rests (save the pub for the evenings!)
- start early and use all the daylight hours
- don't be fazed by the uphills, a decent downhill
will follow.
- I only used
a ¼ of what I took. Though
I was comforted by having the wet and cold weather gear available if needed,
at times it felt too heavy -
the Sustrans map was detailed enough to pick out near by points, and the signs
were then there as a confirmation of anticipated turnings. This kept up the
interest and I was never bored.
|
