SUNDAY 9th APRIL
TO THURSDAY 13th APRIL 2006
We first decided to ride the C2C last October, when we discovered
that our wives (who are both Teachers) were taking a party of
girls from school on an “educational” trip to New
York the week before Easter. Though we were given the opportunity
to “tag along”, the thought of being on a trip in
New York with forty-five hormonal shop-a-holic females, led us
to think of something considerably easier!
Looking at the C2C Webb-site, it seemed that a reasonable average
for the trip was three days. However, never having had the opportunity
to spend as much time in this part of the country before, we decided
on a more leisurely pace and to do our trip over five days, making
it into more of a holiday.
Using the C2C Webb-site for information, we planned our route
and overnight stops with the intention of making the hard days
a shorter mileage (bearing in mind our combined age of 122!).
The final day with its easy riding would be the longest distance
to cover.
After months of looking forward, at last the
day had come!
START MILEAGE:
00.00 -
START TIME: 10:00 HRS
FINISH MILEAGE: 37.50
FINISH TIME: 18:00 HRS
Our first night was spent at the Cross House,
a large Georgian house on the outskirts of Whitehaven, overlooking
the valley down to St Bees Head.
After a full English breakfast, we set off at 09:45 for the harbour
and the official start of the C2C. After the customary “dipping”
of the rear wheels of our bikes in the sea and the obligatory
photographs alongside the stainless steel C2C sign, we started
the ride at precisely 10am.
The weather was bright and sunny, though bitterly cold with a
strong westerly wind. Picking our way through the town with the
aid of our map, we made for the cycleway alongside the Cumbria
Coast Railway Line, which took us along the valley and out of
Whitehaven towards St Bees. Just past the two mile mark, we left
the railway and headed East up the old colliery line cycle-way,
towards Cleator Moor. We had now started the long ascent towards
the Lake District.
At the ten-mile point we stopped for a short “breather”
and to take off one layer of clothing. Although it was bitterly
cold we had worked-up a bit of a sweat. It was now that I realised
I had been cycling with only one outer glove and I’d left
the other on the harbour at Whitehaven. I had been cycling with
one black glove and one white (inner) glove for ten miles and
hadn’t noticed! Chris asked did I want to go back for it?
But I didn’t think it was worth a twenty mile round trip!
We set off once again, onwards and forever upwards, passing through
the network of old colliery and quarry railways all now vanished,
though the miners and quarry men’s houses still exist in
salient rows in the villages set in the rugged countryside, Cleator
Moore, Arlecdon and eventually Rowrah.
Looking back from Rowrah, 15 miles out from Whitehaven, we could
see the coast far below. We now left the old railway and made
our way along country lanes. A mile or so after passing through
Kirkland and negotiating the first of a series of stiff climbs,
we stopped at the junction near Knock Murton for a rest in the
sunshine and a Mars Bar. Five minutes later, the wind got up and
the sky darkened – we were in the teeth of a blizzard. We
“hunkered down” and sat it out. Ten minutes later
the sun was shining and we set off again.
Our next stop was Loweswater. Passing the lake, we were now in
serious hill country. Every time we gained height we lost it again,
only to have to climb yet another hill. We eventually reached
Loweswater village and left the official route to go to the pub,
The Kirkstyle, for lunch. Sitting in the garden we had a beef
baguette (me) and a spicy chicken (Chris). This gave us new heart
for the afternoon’s ride.
Setting of with renewed vigour, we cycled along the “up
and down” country lanes, eventually reaching High Lorton
and the start of the severe climb through Whinlatter Pass –
a real killer of a hill - or so it seemed at the time. Little
did we know what was in store for us in the Pennines!
Unusually for him, Chris struggled up the first part of the climb
(it’s usually me), eventually stopping at Scales Farm for
a rest, refreshment and to divest ourselves of some of the clothing
we donned leaving the pub. Setting off again, we paced ourselves
and “dug in”.
On the main road approach to Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre,
we were nearly knocked down by an idiot driving a Range Rover,
overtaking on a blind bend on the brow of the hill. All we could
do was to dive off the road and shake our fists as he disappeared
down the road on the wrong side.
Cycling down the trail through Whinlatter Forest, all the sweat
and pain seemed worth it. Very technical, demanding and steep
with sharp bends, we kept our bikes in check to avoid gaining
too much speed on the rough surface. I’d read peoples accounts
of this section on the Web-site and some of the accidents that
had happened to them. After breaking my collarbone last year I
was determined not to do an encore in Whinlatter Forest. Once
at the bottom it was past Bassenthwaite Lake and along the pretty
back lanes through Braithwaite and Portinscale to Keswick.
We arrived at the Keswick Lodge Hotel. Though we had booked our
stay over three months ago nobody had written to us to tell us
it would be closed for refurbishment! Chris asked the contractor
if our luggage had arrived, to be told it had been taken to The
Kings Arms down the road. So we booked in there instead. Well-done
Sherpa Van!
The day’s mileage. 37.5
START MILEAGE 37.5
START TIME 10:00 HRS
FINISH MILEAGE 65.00
FINISH TIME 17.30 HRS
The Kings arms was very comfortable and after
another full English breakfast we had a walk around the town to
buy supplies, sandwiches for lunch and a pair of replacement gloves
for me.
Hitting the road at 10:00hrs, we made our way out of the town
and on to the old railway path along the river valley. It was
our intention to turn off the railway path a couple of miles out
of town and go via Castle Rigg Stone Circle and the Old Coach
Road, but after we had negotiated the boardwalk that takes you
around the old railway tunnel we realised we had missed the turn.
Turning around we retraced our route to the A591 and then commenced
the stiff climb up to Castle Rigg. After a couple of miles of
one of the steepest climb’s so far we reached the stone
circle, sat on a plateau overlooking St Johns in the Vale with
High Rigg as the back-drop. After the customary photographs, we
set off down the lane towards St Johns in the Vale and the notorious
Old Coach Road.
We’d had several conversations, Chris and I, about whether
or not we should do the Old Coach Road or take the easier route
along the railway footpath out of Keswick. I will be sixty this
year and Chris a little older, so we were a little cautious about
over-extending ourselves on the second day with the Pennines still
to do, or worse, having an accident. But you can’t do the
C2C without doing the Old Coach Road can you? Imagine telling
someone you’ve done the C2C and having to answer - No, to
their question; did you do the Old Coach road? We just had to
do it!
The ride down the hill from Castle Rigg was very exhilarating,
through St Johns and over stone bridges, eventually reaching the
turn for the Old Coach Road. As we dismounted to open the gate,
Chris realised he was out of drinking water, after forgetting
to fill his bottle before we left the Kings Arms. Rather than
knock on the door of the bungalow at the bottom of the trail (I
imagine they get plenty of requests for one thing or another),
we both decided to fill our bottles from the hillside stream that
tumbled down off Clough Head and under the track. The water was
cold and sweet, better than tap water!
After closing the gate behind us we mounted our bikes and started
to pedal. Though steep(ish) it didn’t seem too bad at first.
Very rough under wheel, the track started to get steeper towards
the first bend. It was now becoming an effort to maintain momentum,
but determined to stay on as long as possible we carried on. It
was now that I heard a bit of a kafuffle behind me, but setting
the next bend as my target I carried on until, out of breath,
I stopped and looked back. Chris was just getting up off the floor.
It seems he had lost momentum and not being able to get his foot
out of the cleats, fell backwards with his bike on top of him.
Fortunately, he wasn’t hurt and we both remounted, but after
another hundred metres or so the track got even steeper and rougher.
It was impossible to carry on riding. We climbed off and resigned
ourselves to climbing on foot.
Our legs were hurting from the strain and our arms aching from
pushing the bikes. Each time the gradient eased we climbed back
on, but it was a struggle. This episode took about two hours but
eventually, we reached the summit of the trail. Now followed our
reward for all the effort, one of the most exhilarating down hill,
cross-country rides we have experienced. Very demanding on rider
and machine, we knew that a lapse of concentration would be costly;
with brakes and suspensions working overtime we reached the car
park at High Row, muddied but not bloodied, far too soon.
The next section was a tarmac road that took us down to Matterdale
End and another long section of easy off-road riding. We were
really enjoying this!
After eating our lunch at the roadside near Thackwaite, we started
riding the afternoon stint. Another very steep climb followed
by easy down hill sections punctuated by yet more short steep
climbs. We were now leaving the Lake District and the going was
easier. We were going like trains! (Well, for two old blokes anyway.)
Through Greystoke and on to Newton Reigney, where we stopped at
the Sun Inn for Irish Coffees and an interesting talk to the landlord.
It was now only a short ride under the M6 and West Coast Main
Line into Penrith. We found the Glendale Guest House in Portland
Place, a three story Victorian villa, very comfortable with very
pleasant proprietors, Moira, Nancy and Alan.
We turned down their offer of another full English
breakfast next morning and opted for porridge instead.
The day’s mileage.
27.5
START MILEAGE 65.00
START TIME 10:00 HRS
FINISH MILEAGE 90
FINISH TIME 17.30 HRS
We woke up to a very wet day, the rain was crashing
down in a way it doesn’t seem to at home any more.
After breakfast and in our wet weather gear, we set off to Morrison’s
for sandwiches for lunch and then on to a bike shop for a waterproof
cover for my helmet. It was then into the ride, with the steep
ascent of Fell Lane out of Penrith and onwards towards Langwathby,
where we would pass under the Settle and Carlisle railway line.
We knew that the day would have the challenge of Hartside Summit,
580 metres above sea level. Somehow, this hung over us like a
shadow and we put off the serious work for a little longer by
calling in at the very excellent tea room on Langwathby station
for hot chocolate and cake. After about an hour, we dragged ourselves
out and commenced the serious riding we had been putting off.
Through Little Selkeld, past Little Meg Stone Circle, the pleasant
country lanes took us up sharp hills and down steep descents.
The weather now was mainly dry, interspersed by showers driven
by the strong westerly wind. We once again donned our wet weather
gear and rode on.
The Pennines were now getting nearer, though disappearing at frequent
intervals in thick black cloud when we decided to stop for lunch
at the river bridge just through Renwick. This point seemed to
mark the starting point of the roughly 300-metre climb that would
end in Hartside Café on the summit.
After lunch and with renewed energy, we set off straight into
the climb, unremittingly steep, we maintained a steady pace (going
down the gears as the gradient increased), eventually reaching
the junction with the A686 (It’s just as well we did hit
the junction at this point as I had no more gears left!). Here
we had a rest, crouching down behind a gatepost to get out of
the fierce wind and rain. I’d said to Chris at the start
of the day that I hoped we would have bad weather at the top of
Hartside “just for the experience”. Setting off again,
he said he hoped I was satisfied!
The climb on the main road was less severe than on the lane we
had just left. Taking the short track to cut the final bend in
the road, we were there! Straight into the café for hot
chocolate and more cake (we needed to get the sugar levels back
up!) we swapped stories with the other C2C’ers who were
already there. That’s one of the extras on the C2C, the
common bond between everyone doing the ride.
It was now getting close to five o-clock and after the latest
storm had passed through, we donned all our warm clothing and
wet weather gear for the long and fast descent into Alston. Five
miles without turning a pedal, breaking to keep our speed below
35 mph, soon brought us into Alston. The exhilaration was only
tempered by the thought that for every down there was another
up – and there would be plenty of those the next day!
Riding up the steep cobbled streets of the highest market town
in England, we found the Victoria Inn, our stop for the night.
My room at the Victoria was a little different from the one’s
I’d had up until now. There had been a little misunderstanding
and the room that was intended for me had been let to someone
else, I ended up in the attic. Small and with the bed set into
the dormer, I had windows on three sides. Wonderful views of the
town but a bit draughty. Wearing my cycling long johns, socks
and a tee shirt under my pyjamas, I settled down to sleep.
The day’s mileage. 25.0
START MILEAGE 90.00
START TIME 09:15 HRS
FINISH MILEAGE 121
FINISH TIME 17.00 HRS
Though basic, the room was comfortable and I
had a good nights sleep.
We set off at 9:15 for what promised to be the most challenging
day on the trip. 30 miles, with three of the steepest climbs,
Nenthead, Allansheads and Rookhope before us. It’s funny,
but we live not far from Clee Hill in Shropshire. I’ve never
wanted to cycle up Clee Hill because it’s too bloody steep.
To day, we have the equivalent of three Clee Hills to climb!
From Alston we took the B6277, as this was the most direct route
to rejoin the C2C just before Garrigill. At Garrigill we decided
not to take the off-road alternative over Flinty Fell and the
quarry road down to Nenthead, opting to take the “easier”
on-road route via Dowgang Hush.
At the road junction where the B6277 crosses
the C2C route, we had a chat to a lady from the village out walking
with her dog. Where she’d lived before (Carlisle), where
she lived now (Garrigill), why she moved (redundancy), how old
the dog was (6 months), were only some of the topics covered.
By now the North Westerly wind was very strong and cold and after
a drink of coffee and a bar of chocolate we set off. The hill
was very steep but as we where getting quite used to such inclines
we sat in bottom gear and, in a steady rhythm, just pushed the
pedals around. Only the length of the climb was different - you
can’t go any slower than 2 mph without falling off! Every
time we stopped for a breather the lady walking her dog was catching
us up. This spurred us on, the ignominy of being overtaken being
too much to bear.
Eventually, we reached the top a descent into Nenthead that made
our eyes water. The road was narrow, twisty and with many false
brows. Heavy breaking was necessary to keep our speed below suicidal
levels.
After a photograph stop in Nenthead (Chris leaning against the
wall underneath the Nenthead over 60 Rest Rooms) and another chat
to one of the locals, (a sixty-plus lady, who said we should come
back in the summer as they would all have bikini’s on!)
we left Nenthead (fast!) on the alternative off road route up
Black Hill. Again, this proved to be a very demanding section,
steep with boulders and loose ground that involved a lot of walking.
The junction with the C2C road section, at 609 metres above sea
level, marked the highest point of the whole ride. Shortly after
this point we turned left over Killhope Law (aptly named!) and
then the very steep descent to Allenheads. A short ride up the
village and we located the Allenheads Inn – so we did, for
a coffee and a glass of whiskey.
The ride out of Allenheads meant that we were back into our methodical
2 – 3 mph rhythm for the next five miles before the descent
into Rookhope, where we stopped to eat our sandwiches outside
the pub in the bus shelter – honest!
After lunch we set off taking the off road option up the incline
on to the edge of Stanhope Common. The first couple of hundred
yards of the incline after leaving the village were unrideable.
The higher we rode the colder and stronger the wind became until,
in the rock cutting at the top, it was funnelled through the gap
with such ferocity it grabbed at our clothing and made riding
our bikes almost impossible. Thinking this would be a good spot
for a photograph, I persuaded Chris to mount his bike. He did
so reluctantly, managing about half a revolution of the pedals
before falling off – just long enough to get the shot.
It was now starting to rain but the derelict winding house at
the top of the incline provided refuge from the wind so we could
don our waterproofs. This was a significant moment, as we had
completed the very last climb of the route. It was now all down
hill all the way to Sunderland!
We set off down the old railway across the Grouse Moor (with the
Grouse flying in all directions from under our front wheels) towards
the Waskerly Way and Parkend Station. Wind assisted and very fast,
the ride required concentration to stay on the narrow track. A
total of seven exhilarating miles.
A stop at Parkend Station provided tea and scones, a chat to some
other cyclists and the proprietor, before commencing the final
section of the day, the fantastic, wind assisted dash on the downhill
section of the old railway from Consett and known as the Waskerley
Way. An average speed of over 20mph for the five miles soon brought
us to Bee Cottage, for what proved to be our most comfortable
nights stay of the week.
The day’s mileage. 31.0
START MILEAGE 121
START TIME 09:15 HRS
FINISH MILEAGE 154
FINISH TIME 17.15 HRS
After a very comfortable nights stay and a hearty
breakfast, we left Bees Farm Cottage in the teeth of a ferocious
North Westerly wind, so strong it was all we could do to cycle
against it up the drive to rejoin the Waskerly Way. Fortunately,
once on the track the wind was behind us and pushed us along towards
Consett.
The Waskerly Way was in very good condition and with the assistance
of the wind the riding was easy. On reaching Hawsgill viaduct,
a thirteen-arched span across a deep valley, we dismounted and
walked for fear of being blown off our bikes and over the cast
iron railings. It also gave us the opportunity to look at the
fantastic views.
Next was Consett and we paused for a photograph alongside the
molten steel Cupola situated on the grassy mound that was once,
I assume, the location of the steelworks. We picked our way through
the town and joined the track-bed of the railway line from Tyne
Dock, along which the steam trains laden with iron ore for the
steel works laboured against the grade all the way from the coast.
Though a good ride, the countryside was now much less scenic than
before. After Stanley we reached Beamish open air museum, where
we spent a very interesting couple of hours before setting off
once again towards Washington and the River Wear.
Nearer Washington the ride was getting more disjointed, leaving
the railway track-bed more often where bridges had been removed
and new roads built. The ride along the River Wear and towards
the Stadium of Light into Sunderland was pleasant, though somewhat
litter strune with plenty of graphity evident (the kids here seem
to use four-inch brushes instead of the usual one-inch favoured
at home!).
After making our way along the marina and passing the sign congratulating
C2C’ers on completion of their ride, we rode along the quay
towards the sea. We actually had the end in sight, thinking it
was all over, when fate dealt me a cruel blow – I had a
puncture in my front tyre!
Determined to finish the ride in the proper fashion – i.e.:
riding a bike not pushing one, I set to and started to take the
wheel off and mend the puncture. Feeling inside the tyre I found
the problem – a thorn. Breaking it off and smoothing the
inside of the tyre so not to puncture the replacement tube, I
fitted the new tube and replaced the wheel. The wind was making
all of this very awkward and I was getting impatient about the
whole process.
Now to start inflating the tube – except, the brand new
pump I had bought the week before from Halfords wasn’t putting
any air in the tyre. After several minutes of pumping, banging
the pump on the ground to loosen the valve inside and pumping
again, Chris suggested I use his pump. I could see that Chris’s
valves were Shreader valves and mine were car-type valves. I could
also see that his pump only had one connection head, so I thanked
him and told him his pump wouldn’t fit my bike. Actually,
he said, I think it will fit your bike; it’s mine it won’t
fit.
Whilst carrying on the conversation I pumped my pump one last
time and it started working. All of a sudden the mood lifted and
I quickly completed blowing up the tyre. Off we set in search
of the marker post signifying the end of the ride.
We expected to find something like the Stainless C2C sign at Whitehaven.
After riding up and down the sea front we eventually decided that
there wasn’t one. Feeling a little bit cheated; we walked
down the slipway by the Lifeboat and on to the beach to dip our
front wheels in the sea.
After the obligatory photographs – that was it! A somewhat
anticlimactic end to what had been one of the most memorable of
cycle rides. All we had to do now was ride the thirteen miles
through Jarrow and Southsheilds to our hotel in Wallsend. A ride
that would take another three hours in the teeth of the wind that
had pushed us from Whitehaven. But that’s another story.
The day’s mileage. 47.0
Total Miles:
(including the ride to Wallsend): 168
Total riding time: 21
hours 52 minutes
Average speed: 7.63
mph (We are two old blokes!)
Maximum speed:
35.67 mph.
Verdict: TERRIFIC!
Conclusion:
We’re doing it again next year! (This time to Newcastle).
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