The Rookhope Inn, without much ado, slammed its doors shut in March 2014. We are awaiting news of a new owner. The former owner is uncontactable but you will be informed as soon as we heat anything. This strategic pub was – despite its idiosyncratic approach to hospitality – an important waymark on the route.

This stretch out of Allenheads is the second from last serious ascent, and it drags on until you reach the summit at Currick. Then there’s some nice downhill into Rookhope. You soon pass the boundary into County Durham. Look out for Lintzgarth Arch, which was once the portal to a 3km horizontal chimney across the valley.

Rookhope is another shrunken mining village, but charming for all that. Shop, post office and working men’s club.